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Misadventures to Phanom Rung

2005-09-04, Korat, Thailand

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This weekend is my first misadventure trip of my month's stay in Thailand. Deciding to visit some khmer ruins near to Buriram, I chose Phanom Rung Historical Park since it is Thailand's best restored Khmer ruins left from the 13th century. You can't say you've been to Isan area if you haven't visitd any ruins left by the khmers in Thailand, can you??!?!?!

Waking up at 6am, I left the bus station by 7am, hoping to reach Phanom Rung before 10am, the time when all the tourist buses arrive from Bangkok. Upon reaching Nang Rong, I changed to another bus which should take me to Phanom Rung in 30mins for 25baht. Happily seated in the bus and looking out for any signs of a ruin, I realised that we're passing by a mountain range..and got a bit worried since the ruins are supposed to be atop an extinct volcano. The lady next to me ushered me out of my seat, sputtering Thai words that contained "Phanom Rung, blah blah blah....". The bus conductor said "Phanom Rung?" and let me alight the bus...., then pointed in the direction of the mountains we passed, and just sped OFF! I only turned my head for 1 sec to see what he was pointing at and before I knew it, he zoomed off(guiltiy, I bet) and left me stranded in the middle of NOWHERE. It is literally nowhere cos there are no tuk-tuks, no cars, no buses, no ruins, no nothing.

I stared at the old man who alighted with me and tried to muster whatever Thai language I had picked up to signal that I want to go Phanom Rung. However, I was still a bit in shock at my "abandonment" by the bus. Alone and in shock, I wanted a latte desperately to sober up. Wish there's a Starbucks round the corner...

Soon, I walked to a road sign and it said "Phanom Rung Historical Park - 13km". Based on my knowledge of road travel, 13km is like driving 20mins from my village home in Nanongtum to the district's main road. At that point, I could only take out my camera to snap a picture of what I'm feeling at that very point(see for yourself).

Soon, I met the old man again, and he was clearly telling the story of a stoopid farang stranded in their village and trying to find her way to Phanom Rung. After some chicken-and-duck talk, I heard a price of 50baht and jumped at the offer for another old man to take me up on his motorbike. People who are desperate will do anything, I tell you.... Soon, we are sputtering up on 2nd and 3rd gear up the winding steep mountain roads, passing by serene lakes and rice fields along the way, flanked by the mountains on all sides. It was a great day out since the sun is hiding behind the clouds and the winds are refreshing and cool. It was such a relief to finally spot a ruin spire peaking out from the shades of the trees....whew!!! After 20mins, we reached the entrance of the park. Given our close conversation skills(how many kids, how old are you, etc) on the motorbike, I decided I like this old man enough to repay him 100baht for his kindness....and he said he will wait for me to finish and send me back. Such an angel...

At the gate, there was a pick-up with some cool looking dudes(look like jap rappers) entering the park and I had my first hitchike ride with these guys. Arriving at the park, I took stock of my situation and realised I still have no idea how to go back to Korat even if the old man sent me back to "the middle of nowhere". The minute I heard an english speaking guy, I approached him immediately with my doe-eyed n pitiful look and asked how they came to Phanom Rung and explained my situation. After 5mins, I wrangled a free ride back to the main town. Whew!!! I thought he was a tour guide but turns out he belongs to a group of delegates who are on tour here from Bangkok, together with lecturers and businessmen from Laos, Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand and Cambodia. With my transport woes settled, I went about doing what I came to Phanom Rung to do - take photos!

By the time I reached Phanom Rung, it was already 10.30am and the tour groups have already conquered the ruins. Most of them come from Bangkok on a package day trip, travelling in a nice comfy air-conditioned coach or they drove up here in their pick-up or cars...nobody did what I did at all. I'm just happy to be here at all and meeting kind people everywhere I go.

The ruins are pretty nice and not too large like those in Ayuthaya so you can really wander around comfortably in about 2hours. There are some scenic spots overlooking the plateau of the rice paddy fields. Soon, I realised it is time to go meet the kind souls who are giving me a free ride out of here. One of the organizors, Philip, is a Taiwanese but grew up in Thailand, is very fluent in Thai and helped me to explain my situation to the guard at the entrance who can then radio my motorbike old man not to come n fetch me back to his village. It was such a fiasco with like 5 people standing around me trying to decide what to do with me....sadly, this experience made me realize that my thai is not very fluent at all...."Are you hungry?" and "How old are you?" questions ain't gonna help me at all in situations like that. Once again, my sincere thanks to the kind people who have been helping me out the whole day.

On the bus, the group of happy troopers are really lovers of karaoke and each country representative would belt out a popular song like "Loy Krathong" and "Chang, chang, chang" for Thailand, "Vietnam - Ho Chi Minh" for Vietnam, etc. Before I know it, I heard whispers of "Singapore" going around and I shivered in my seat. What am I to sing? "There are 5 stars arising...???" Gee....sorry folks, I lied and said Karaoke is banned in Singapore. Haha...

Reaching back to Volunthai home for the rest of the weekend, I was delighted to find that Klasina is cooking us some dutch tortellini carbonara and freshly tossed salad! Yummy! Nice to come "home" to a cosy home-cooked meal and SPY wine.... Cheers!

Backtracking to my homestay this week, I learnt how to weave silk. It is hard work indeed... I can't fathom how such a lovely piece of silk can be sold only for like 300baht here! It's madness! According to Pen, it should sell for about 1000baht elsewhere in Korat, so I'm going to march home later and tell it to my host mother she's been cheated!

Next week is my last week as an Aajarn...it's gonna be emotional for some people, I think. On my first 3days staying at my homestay, my host grandmother is already saying she will miss me when I'm gone. The students are asking me to stay for another 2-3months.... *gulp*

Stay tuned for more English Teacher Farewell story coming up!


Picture of When left stranded on the way to Phanom Rung. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of The road of 'the middle of nowhere'. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Finally, Im at Phanom Rung!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of 13km to Phanom Rung....argh..... Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Serene pic of ssome statue.....no guide, no knowledge.  Sorry!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Pic1. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Pic2. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Pic3. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Pic4. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Me and my hero for the day. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of More ruins.... Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Naga bridge. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Relieved to reach hanom Rung at long last!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Phanom Rung Historical Park. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Me!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Klasina the Dutch Cook!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Salad n SPY Wine...yumz!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Me at Phanom Rung again!!!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Arroy mak mak!!! Home cooked food at Volunthai home.. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Weave, woman, weave!. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Silk Weaver Jo. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Peekaboo with meh(host mother). Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Ner yang gao li (similar to korean bbq). Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Meh preparing steamed bamboo (yumz!). Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Ta (host grandpa), Tong and Yai(grandma). Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Family dinner with the kids.... Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Thom looking as dark as the charcoal...she resembles a popular TV actress in Thailand. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Sunset at the jogging trek cum reservoir near my homestay. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Yai and Tong watching TV...I love this shot. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.
Picture of Wat near to Volunthai house. Taken 2005-09-04 in Korat, Thailand by traveler Incaqueen.

Next entry: Pai tiao Tat Tone and Khon Khaen!

 
 

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