On Friday the 19th we rented a car (not cheap here) and drove to Sousselvei (the giant sand dunes of Namibia). The girl at the rental place recommended to route we take. We did GREAT driving on the opposite side of the road (with the steering wheel on the opposite side of the dash. fortunately it was mainly rural from the time we left Windhoek to Sesreim/Soussevlei. The road was gravel for 331 miles but not like in Texas--I don't know how they grade them but it was smooth sailing. We went through two mountain passes that were pretty incredible; almost like you were on the moon in one of them. It was like traveling in a zoo with no fences except where the farmers had their land fenced off. On the road-not necessarily in order--saw jackals, baboons, common dunker, springboks by the herd, gemsbok--one particular one was just beautiful running through this beautiful grass with the mountains in the backdrop, aardwolf--what you say-looks similar to jackal but striped back (robert saw him just at sunset), ground squirrels(not like in US), Hartman's Zebra herds, damara dikdik, kudu herds and cheetah(at farm).The birds were incredible also including several Southern Yellow Hornbill, Socialble Weavers with these immense nests of about 50 to 60 nests under one woven cover!, my personal favorite at the moment the Lilac Breasted Roller and many more. Some of them are so colorfull and cooperative-we would wheel around and look again. Got to the Dunes and found that the Namibian Tourist Bureau has increased the price and admission and camping quite a bit. We drove the road along the dunes and were not disappointed. As the colors changed on the dunes it was hard to keep moving and not take picture after picture. Was well world the cost of the car! Decided not to camp right at the entrance to the dunes; for one thing was about $40.00 to camp in the dust! Drove back to Solitaire which is the crossroads on the way to the dunes. Price much more reasonable. Cooked dinner, had wine with the accompanyment of African singing in the background. Was a full moon and wonderful! Up the next moring to do our favorite--game drive--did see gemsbok, kudu, zebra. dikdik and so was well worth the early start. Stopped at Melrose Cheetah Camp --their sign says they are part of the Cheetah Conservation International. The girl at the gate told us where the camping was and assured us we would be able to leave at 6:00 a.m. so we could get rent car back.. The campground is very nicely situated and there is a waterhole up and behind it. We walked up there to see wild horses and a troop of about 50-75 baboons! Yikes! Set up our tent and were soon in the land of noisy birds--the grey lourie "the go away bird" sets up quite a noise along with the francolin so it was quite entertaining as we napped. Had dinner and went up to main place to see about having a drink at the Cheetah Bar--don't know how the place stays in business--at 7:00 bar closed and we were only people staying there that we could see. Back up a bit..............Robert looked up right after we had set up and saw some of the cheeetahs in an enclosure right next to the camping! After our nap while we were having tea, I felt something watching me and sure enough looked over and the cheetah was observing me! After finding the bar closed and the placed locked up, we went back to campground andgot the chair, bottle of wine and walked up to the waterhole. There is a light that can be turned on so we did and waited for the view! Saw some rabbits, or were they jackrabbits or were they jackals with rabbit ears?, and bats and all manner of insects. Had a wonderful time--for a brief moment we wondered where the other six billion people were! Of course during the night we both thought we heard baboons moving about--not sure. Next morning up and at the gate before 6:00- 6:45 no one back down to headquarters, no answer , then back to gate at 7:45 back down to headquarters, honking, knocking on doors, finally at 8:00 the cavalry arrived--they said they were not aware we needed to leave. Got back to Windhoek, dropped off car and are camping back at the Backpackers Unite! hostel. Visiting with people who have come down from the way we are heading and enjoying ourselves. We should be heading out soon for Etosha and the Caprivi Strip!
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