Monday 2nd May
I did not have to be in Arica for two days.
I was going to see the Colca canyon and the Condors but when I found it involved 12 hours in a bus I decided against it. Frankly I was sick of them.
I decided to break my journey to Tacna at Moquegua (four hours) for a few hours. Gustaf Eifell of Eifell tower fame had made a small monument there. It would be a break anyhow.
Not long after leaving Arequipa the scenery changed to desert. Dry and without any life at all.
This all changed at the Tambo river where it was like an oasis of green cultivated fields and then just as suddenly, desert again.
After 3 hrs we all had to go through a baggage x-raycheck out in the desert. Then off again.
I knew when we had arrived at Moquegua but it was obviously the slums on the outskirts of the town.
Vendors were selling soft drinks in a frame on a stick to get them up to the windows. Also cupcakes filled with meat and vegetables, avocados, some tiny ones and other fruit.
The bus took off for what I presumed was the town proper,went around a traffic island and then we were in the desert again. Obviously something was not right.
We were on our way to Tacna via Ilo on the coast.
That traffic island was the city centre. Lost again
I paid another $2 Aus and we raced across the beautiful smooth tar sealed road duly arriving at the port of Ilo. Their main export is gas from a pipeline from Bolivia.
A change of buses and we were out of that grubby place and down the coast.
Quite pretty really, some rocky outcrops and almost one continuous beach for an hour or so. The sand was a dirty brown colour but quite nice all the same.
I had done the right thing for the wrong reasons again.
Eventually Tacna hove into view. The end of the trip.
At the bus terminal I ordered a mounted loin for lunch.
Sounded interesting. It was the standard pile of greasy chips, rice and chopped beef.
Outside a fleet of old American sedans waited to take me to Arica in Chile. Mine was a 1992 Ford Taurus.
Three stops and a cursory search at the border and we made the hour long journey across the desert to Arica. Another port but quite clean and touristy.
I had come here to see the stars but there is no hope of that. It has a permanent mist like LA.
My hotel was OK but every time I turned the shower on it makes a noise like a machine gun and shook the concrete walls. Once it was flat out it was alright.
I saw a museum here and a street originally designed by Eifell. He got around a bit. Had a Maccas. First in a month. Familiar tastes at last. The coffee was terrible with powdered milk.
4th May
Took a bus out to the farmers market in the morning.
Coca leaves were for sale by the sack full.
The bus took me back via the suburbs. There are many new houses going up. The land is usually about 12 feet by 40 feet. Pastel yellow blue and green are the favourite colours.
People are more prosperous and the cars are bigger here than in Peru.
I wandered about town for a while and went to the airport.
Situated almost on the border with Peru it is an oasis in the desert. As it almost never rains the departure lounge has no roof. Just a ceiling with the sun shining through.
The plane took us to Santiago without incident.
Santiago is a huge city of several million people with several subway systems and a section that looks just like Paris which was where my hotel was. It was a grand old place.
I went for my usual walk after booking in. The Paris section was a real bonus. All very clean and well lit. Right near the subway and the main shopping area.
I found a great restaurant where they had a pig on a spit roasting in the window. I conveyed by sign language that I wanted some and was soon devouring a feast.
It was early evening and the rush hour was on. It goes till about half past nine.
Very few people smoke in South America which is certainly a plus.
The next day after a futile search for bacon and eggs I rode the subway out into the suburbs and back again to Central. I found a post office but had a lot of trouble finding a postcard. They do not have many here. Plenty of Mothers Day cards.
Spent the day wandering about the city. Looked at a museum.
Got lost eventually and had to get a taxi back to my hotel. I always carry the address with me just in case. I was miles away. My pedometer said 23,791 for the day.
The collective taxi arrived on time and took me to the airport and soon we were winging our way towards New Zealand. I was sad to leave in some ways. There were lots of things I did not see but I missed my family and friends in Australia and dairy foods. I was looking forward to my sisters cooking in Auckland. She did not disapoint me. I pigged out for the whole time I was there.
Sunday night I was back in Sydney. It had not changed. Everything seemed to go a bit flat as I caught the train home. Same old sights.
Soon I was nursing my new grand daughter. She will keep me busy till I get the next adventure under way.
Bye for now.
Richard
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