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Just a day in Kathmandu.

2005-03-08, Kathmandu, Nepal

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Here is another semi-exciting update from my travels afar. Well, I guess I can't call them travels since I've been limited to the Kathmandu valley for the past two months, but you get the picture. (whoever you happen to be)

School is School. The children's lack of discipline and constant disobedience is still very frustrating to deal with. It's almost as if the children run this school instead of the teachers. I've lost my temper a few times and started cursing in english, but luckily the students can't understand what I say so I don't think any harm is done. My positive experiences at the school outweigh the negative ones by a large margin. I'm starting to develop relationships with some of the students and teachers, which will definitely make it a bit difficult to leave. I only say a bit difficult because I'm extremely excited to see what else Nepal is about. I'm desperate to get out of the city.

Today was Shiva Ratri, a Hindu festival celebrating Shivas birthday. Pilgrims come to Kathmandu from all over the world for this festival. In all, organizers of the event were expecting about 150,000 people to visit Pashupatinath, the main Hindu temple in Kathmandu. In order to beat the crowds I left my room around 5:30 this morning and took a bus as close to the temple as I could. All of the roads leading directly to the temple were closed, so there was about a 20 minute walk from the bus stop to the temple entrance. Even at 6:00 in the morning there were loads of people in line to enter the temple. Non-hindus are not allowed inside the temple so I opted to watch things from an outlook across the holy Bagmati river overlooking the temple and its surroundings.

I expected much more than I saw. For some reason I pictured in my mind, throngs of people piling in and out of the temple. Basically some major disorganization and a little pandemonium. Surprisingly officials had things under complete control. They even managed to organize people into one single file line to enter the temple. A feat that was itself quite astounding after living in this shove or be shoved city.

Things at the temple were not very interesting, but some of the pilgrims (mostly from India) were pretty entertaining. Most of them are Sadhus and Babas who smoke and do all kinds of drugs for most of the day, so their actions are always something to watch. One Sadhu went into a rage and tore his little living quarters apart saying God told him to do it. I watched some snake charmers being their charming selves, then got my picture taken with one snake around my neck and a cobra in my hand. I'm not sure why, but I completely trusted these guys who were most likely up all night smoking hash. I'll definitely post this pic when I get the chance. There was also a large white guy with dreadlocks who appeared to be the only white Baba. It would have been interesting to hear his life story.

Next, I took a walk to Bodhanath Stupa and had some toast and tea. I really like coming to this place. There's just a great feeling or "aura" there. After my light breakfast, I stopped by another restaurant where a friend of mine works. I promised to bring him a photo of himself that I took about 2 weeks ago. It was great to see how happy he was to see I followed through with my promise. Since my arrival I've had to make many promises, very few of which I haven't been able to follow through with. I don't like making promises, but everyone here insists on them.

Following another cup of tea with my friend, he took me part way to Kopan monastery. Kopan sits on top of a large hill overlooking most of the valley and is where I will be living for 10 days after I leave the school in 3 weeks. They offer a 10 day intro to Buddhist philosophy and history. I figure a little spiritual improvement never hurt anyone, so I signed up. Too bad they reserve the red robes for the monks and nuns. I have a feeling I would look pretty good in one. Kidding aside, I'm really looking forward to my stay at Kopan, and my mind and body could really use some relaxation after living and working in the school for 2 months. Poor, poor me.

The walk to Kopan took about 45 minutes. Today is especially hot so I was quite relieved to get there, especially after taking one very wrong turn. Everyone there was very friendly, which can be expected from a bunch of monks. I took a short walk around, and then had some chopsuey in their cafeteria before walking back down the hill to Kathmandu. A very peaceful place.

Both on the way to Kopan and on the way back there were kids setting up road blocks with ropes demanding money to pass. I guess this is a tradition here on Shiva Ratri. Most people just ignore the kids and either step over the ropes or drive right through them. I didn't have much small change on me, so I decided either avoid their little traps or just smile and act like I didn't know what they were saying. That may sound pretty mean, but if I was to give a rupee to 3 or 4 kids, everyone would demand money and I would never lose them. It was funny watching them try to stop cars and people with their little rope.

And now I'm at an internet cafe back at Bodhanath Stupa. Overall things here are going well. I have good days and bad ones. On the bad days I have little to know tolerance for everything: The lack of attention to personal hygiene and cleanliness, the constant staring from strangers, complete disregard for the environment. I could go on, but this isn't a bad day so I don't feel like being negative any longer.

Thanks for reading.


Picture of No more charming the ladies, now I charm snakes.. Taken 2005-03-08 in Kathmandu, Nepal by traveler Jimeroni.
Picture of View from Kopan monastery.. Taken 2005-03-08 in Kathmandu, Nepal by traveler Jimeroni.

Next entry: Bhaktapur part 1

 
 

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