Journal
01-16-2002
Breakfast at Ankobra Beach Resort is continental with menu items extra. The evening deal for us is: 1 entrée, 2 sodas or 1 mini-beer and either an appetizer or dessert. We went overboard last night, but Onyameba (O.) still signed for the check.
Today Fr. Francis (FF) tries all morning to reach us by phone because he was “burying someone.” We cancel plans and stay at the beach where Star beer and club sandwiches are brought to the palapa (umbrella of palm leaves). There is good shell hunting all day. Note: the rocks around the corner to the west along the beach prove to be great sea bathing spots.
We meet a man named Joseph whose last name means “see the sun.” He dives for shells and does jewelry out of them. Doug purchases a large snail shell for about $2 U.S. and hears Joseph’s story of working for the merchant marine just long enough to educate his children and then returns to Axim to live the life he loves. Doug expresses a wish to ride on one of those big hand made fishing boats that are so prevalent on the West African coast. Joseph says he knows a family who owns one... we'll see.
O. and A (Amos, our driver) find Doug by 3:30, bringing him back to civilization and the laid back world of Ankobra Beach Resort. They have only just returned from a minor car repair. We are off to tour Axim!
During the car repair jaunt, O. has visited his father’s alma mater, the Axim Methodist Primary School (AMPS). He casually asks the group of travelers if they would like to visit before going into town. We casually answer, “Sure.” After a steep climb up a gullied track we view a school on split shifts because one of its wings is roofless. The children are lined up in the courtyard in the hot sun waiting for the Americans who “might” visit. It is 30 minutes or more past dismissal time!
The school is impressive in that several prominent Ghanaians, including O.’s father, a former MP, have graduated from it. It is in such great need. We are overwhelmed by what we see: A highly functional school in the poorest of settings. This school deserves better!
The travelers leave to tour Fort Sao Antonio, downtown Axim. A very impressive tour is conducted by 14 year old Cebi and his 8 year old younger brother, Thomas—they are filling in for their father. This fort is not nearly as white washed as the others and is probably on the schedule for a face lift in a few years. However, it is large and the stories here are very interesting, such as the governor falling to his death just as his wife arrives via supply ship. He is buried where he fell.
The fort is situated between the town football field (Americans are the only people to call it soccer) and the harbor. This field is the social gathering spot for the town and an impromptu game has begun which is fascinating to watch.
A very large old Boabob tree grows on the northwest corner of the football field and is decorated with huge white sashes. The group inquires about this and is told they are put there as thanksgiving from a previously childless woman who gave birth to twins. It seems she visited the local shaman who told her to pray under that tree that she should be able to bear children. When it worked, she tied the tree up with white cotton so everyone could see her gratitude.
We return to Ankobra Beach Resort for supper and retire early for tomorrow is a big day: We are visiting Nzulezu!
Axim is very, very poor. It is a fairly good sized town, but on the surface has little to offer except the great castle tour by Thomas and Cebi. (There are more memorable experiences to come, however!) The beaches are spectacular with the Axim Beach Hotel perched high on a bluff above the ocean, open air dining with a beautiful view. Ankobra, as described earlier, is paradise on earth, a quiet, peaceful, restful, get away from it all kind of place. There is something special here... in a spiritual sort of way.
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