The cloud had cleared from the day before, the sky was bright and sunny and we now had a clear view of Machhapucchre
looking like a proper mountain should
all pointy, snowy and completely impenetrable. Machhapucchre, a holy mountain, has never been conquered. Continued into the mountains past Deurali. We saw eagles in and out of mist snaking over the cliffs above. Mountain goats were climbing across the sheer faces as if they were in the green meadows behind us. Crossed over a thawing glacier, steam spewing from ice caves, bottomless holes appearing as if to remind us to watch our step.
The fog closing in now and keeping us company up the valley, muffling the sound of the river and shutting out the light. It was starting to get quite tough now, Andreas knees were not getting better and the path was turning into sandy earth
two steps forward
slip one back.
Suddenly, gaps began to appear in the mist. The mountains had crept up on us and were now poking their heads through windows, watching our strained and progress.
Finally limped in to Machhapuchhre Base Camp, 1,200 metres in one day. It was very cold. No electricity
no phone
just a double dose of carbon monoxide now from the heater and the single propane lamp. Andrea got her knees massaged with hot water and salt by Raj, our guide (
. hang on a minute !
). Then we managed to catch a glimpse of the moon climbing up the shoulder of Machhapuchhre, which was now turning red in the evening sun.
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