Paced and ready to hit the mountain, we and our guide (Raj) were driven by a Nepalese boy-racer in an aging 1970's Mk 1 Toyota Corolla to the beginning of our Annapurna trek. Several cable bridges and steps later we were begging to struggle a little - both bright red and a little sweaty. Our guide was bearly even breathing.
These were the lower valleys so many of the hill sides were terraced - green with trees and crops. The rivers were clear with turquoise pools beside them. Porters and mule trains passed us carrying impossibly heave loads of empty beer bottles, plastic furniture, sunflower oil and tinner soup. We were overtaking and overtaken by hoards of French, Germans, Japanese and Brits, many off which were clattering along the paths with walking sticks in both hands like demented spiders .... er ... with less legs. Met a bunch of French pensioners who must have been well into their late 60's. But their pace suited us and we took it as our own.
The last slog to Ulleri involved 3230 steps (no I didn't count them, it was in the book). It made me feel better that we passed a few porters who were close to coroneries. We got to the lodge and fell into our assigned shed ... er I mean room. It was pretty basic ... I mean take your garden shed, get rid of the lawn mower, put a 20 watt bulb in, and then put two beds in and you'll get the idea. But we were so knackered it didn't matter.
By dinner Andrea was transformed from a decrepid wreck into a human dynamo with renewed confidence and energy. She was already planning her ascent of Everest while I was given my orders to do a scan of the shed ...I mean room ... for spiders.
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