6 days ago we arrived in Cusco, the capital of the old Inca empire. Its an amazing city with cool Colonial buildings built around, beside and on top of old Inca ruins. Being the main town for the Inca Trail, its full of nice bars and restaurants for the tourists and we spend the first day looking around the main colonial squares as well as various churches, markets and shops. Obviously we didn`t want to go too mad knowing that we were about to start a 5 day Inca Trial hike to Machu Pichu the next day.
Day 1
The first day of the trip wasn`t actually on the Inca Trail but more an introduction to it. The first stop was at an Inca Ruin on the hill above Cusco called Saxaywaman (sounds like Sexy Woman but actually means `head of the Puma`) which was a religious settlement and part of Cusco in Inca times. The ruins were cool as the effort they went into to perfecting the stone work is very impressive and the stones are so large (over 100 tons some of them) that they have survived many earthquakes. We then went to some more ruins which we had a 30 minute walk to. This was our first view of the Inca terraces they built for farming high up on the steep slopes of the Andes. The path to get to these ruins was quite precarious at times but was very rewarding when we came over a small ridge to look down over the ruins. This small village consisted mainly of farmers dwellings but even so it still had a Sun Temple and various religious buildings which are of much finer quality than the buildings used for accomodation. We end the day in a small town called Ollantaytambo and have a tour of the Inca ruins here. These ruins are mainly farming terraces shaped by the Incas in the form of a Llama. We spend the night in a cool little hotel and stock up on energy bars and Coca leaves for the journey ahead. The Coca leaves are used for chewing by ancient Andean people to combat the effects of altitude sickness. They were also the key ingredient in Coca Cola and are still used in the process for flavour. Of course their main use now is for the drug trade in the western world however chewing doesn`t release the Cocaine. There are varous active ingredients in the Coca leaf and the process of chewing releases a chemical that numbs muscle pain and helps combat fatigue. The cocaine itself is produced by many chemical process but not by chewing.
Day 2
We make our way by mini-bus to Kilometer 82, the traditional start of the Inca Trail. This is in the Urubamba river and is surrounded by high snow peaked mountains on either side. The walk is pretty gentle for most of the morning as we pass by the archeological site of Wilkarakay and the Inca Ruins of Llactapata. We Continue up the Cusichaka River Canyon with magnificent views of the Cordillera Oriental mountain range, particularly Veronica Mountain at 5850 m. After lunch we start up the trail toward the first pass Warmiwanusca (Dead Womans Pass) at 4200m and stop half way up to camp the night. This part of the trail is pretty tough as the altitude sickenss starts to set in and the path is both steps and a steep slope which seems never ending. We try our Coca leaves which have a small affect. As well as tasting disgusting and making your mouth go numb they do have a slight effect of numbing the pain in your legs, however its just like chewing grass and is pretty disgusting after a while. At least the disgusting taste in the mouth takes your mind off the steep path ahead for a while. We are entering the cloud forest and the vegetation is very lush with amazing trees and flowers as the snow capped peaks slowly get nearer. The organised tour we go with have 2 guides that walk with us as well as 17 porters to carry our rucksacks, tents and cooking equipemnt. When we get to the camp they already have all our tents and everything set up. Its like being in the Imperial Raj in India having all these lsaves carry your gear and take care of you. We are called to the food tent to sit down for afternoon Tea and biscuits followed by a beautifully prepared 3 course meal. Talk about luxury in the middle of nowhere.
Day 3
Were woken up at 6.30 with our guides giving us cups of tea in our tent, what a luxury! Over night the camp site has been taken over by Llama who blockade the route to the toilets. After breakfast we attempt the final ascent of the ‘Dead Womans pass`. This is the highest and probably steepest part of the journey and its a very tough 90 minutes before we reach the top. From the pass we descend to the Pacamayo valley (3300m). This is a pretty quick descent but its a luxury to not be going up hill. Although its still tough on the legs you are at least able to enjoy your surroundings a bit more and notice things such as humming birds darting between the flowers and trees on the pathway. After lunch we climb up and cross the second pass (3860m) which is tough going but nothing compared to the mornings walk. We then follow the Royal Inkas Highway down to the Inka Ruins of Sayacmarca passing by the Volcanic Lake Yanacocha.
Day 4
Thankfully we have the 2 hardest days behind us and todays walk is quite gentle through the beautiful sup-tropical vegetation en route to the archaeological site of Phuyupatamarca. We then begin the steep descent through the cloud forest and see some of the 600 varities of orchid on the trail as well as various birds on the way to our camp site. Unfortunately, being a cloud forest the weather is very changeable and about half way down the heavens open. This is quite a nice change actually after having extremely warm sunshine for the last few days. After the rains the sun breaks through and were soon dry again. We camp for the final night at a place called Winaywayna (Forever Young). As this is the last camp site before Machu Pichu, it is quite civilised and even has a bar, restaurant and hot showers.
Day 5
We are woken at 4am and leave the campsite at 5 to get to Intipunku (the Sun Gate) for sunrise. Every group has the same idea and this hours walk is quite a rush as everyone tries to push past you to get to the gate for sunrise. When we get there the view is amazing as the sun slowly creeps over the ruins of Machu Pichu down below. There are many parts of this trip that have made us say “Wow” before but this just left us breathless (and for once not due to the altitude). As we walk down to the ruins we have time to look back over the last few days of tough trekkeing and it all seems so worth while. Far below the ruins you can see the train station and buses ready to take the tourists up to the ruins on a day trip but to us, part of the magic of Machu Pichu is the journey to get there and it just wouldn`t be the same getting the bus. The weather has done us a big favour as the sun beats down over the ruins and we get that Picture Postcard view. The site seems much bigger than what we have see in books and on TV and the hours tour we get is fascinating. This was the second Inca city (after Cusco) and was their number one religious site. The Inca`s used to do a pilgrimage to the site, just like we have done. The variety of buildings is very impressive from the humble living quarters, the crop terraces, the temple of the Sun and the astronomical temple housing the ancient sun dial. The whole place has a magical aura about it and although there are lots of other people there, everybody seems to be in there own little world. After the tour we are given some free time to explore the ruins by ourselves and we are able to find a nice quiet corner to sit and admire the atmosphere of the ruins and the amazing view of the tall mountains around that protected the site from the Spanish many years ago. You can get the bus down from the site to the town below but me and one of the other guys, Duncan, decide to take the alternative route and run down over a Kilometers of straight down the side of the mountain which is just about the final straw for my legs. The journey back to Cusco is by train along the valley floor with amazing tree and snow covered mountains on either side.
Once back in Cusco we are in for one final treat. It turns out that tonight is the final of the Copa Sudamerica (Champions Leage for South America) and it just happens to be between Cusco and Boca Juniors (of Argentina). They have errected a huge TV in the main Square and there must be about 5000 mad peruvians to watch it here (as well as every bar, shop and house in the city). We find a nice restaurant overlooking the main square which has a TV of the game. Boca are leading 1-0 but Cusco equalise in the last minute of normal time. The game goes direct to penalties and Cusco win, much to the delight of the whole of Cusco who all go mental, singing in the streets, letting off fireworks and dancing in a parade around the square. This is an unexpected but fantastic end to an amazing week in Peru.
Sorry this entry has been so long but it was such an amazing experience that its hard to stop typing!
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