Well what an interesting week it has been. Our remaining time in La Paz was spent doing the touristy things wed missed first time around including (but not restricted too) shopping, a visit to the zoo (where Celia was bitten by a fox) and checking out the cocoa museum. La Paz is well known for its bootlegged CDs street stalls. Celia stocked up whilst I admired the progression of technology and the willingness of Bolivians to make a quick buck – This week fresh on the stalls are DVDs of Troy (Troya in Spanish) and Shrek 2. Pre Release anyone??? We also received news that Steve had contracted typhoid fever whilst playing with the monkeys. Those poor monkeys….. Waiting to hear back news Celia and I moved to Copacabana, a small town with a Mediterranean feel on the shores of Lake Titicaca. The lake, at an elevation of 3820m is the worlds highest navigable lake and with an area of 9000km squared takes a fair portion of the Bolivian + Peruvian border…. Copacabana is quite a safe town unless you want to post postcards On Wednesday I went to post some postcards…. We found out that the previous mayor of this town had been hung, beheaded and burnt only two weeks ago (Sheesh, Bolivian politics). Whilst crossing the plaza to get to the post office three army trucks pulled up with fully armed militia at the ready. Passing through the plaza we took refuge in the post office to suss the vibe. The militia surrounded parliament house. Minutes later the new mayor arrived on the steps to deliver a speech. By this stage an army of protesters had arrived to combat his speech. Sensing troubled times in Bolivia we made a hasty exit for the cathedral across the road. We eventually heard gun shots and fireworks in protest. The mayor was whisked away by armed guards whilst more militia fought the small band of protesters, mainly children.. We waited a while in the magnificent church before bailing to the safe side of town… Aside from more near death experiences we have also been motorcycling around the lake (an unsurprisingly relaxed process – no license, no helmet, no experience, no worries). We even took a four person peddler for a few hours where we discovered a floating trout farm. An hours climb to Cerro Calvario (3960m) saw an amazing sun set over the town and lake. This hill is sacred ground for locals with many lighting candles at the Stations of the Cross on the way up. I took an overnight tour of Isla de Sol with some Poms we’ve been traveling with. Transferred, it means Island of the Sun, the Inca birth place of the Sun. During a 12km hike we saw many Incan ruins as well as well as amazing views of boths sides of the island and the lake. Little kids are all out to make a quick buck, many of them ruthlessly. When visiting some ruins two 8 year olds tried to tell us that they were collecting an entrance fee of 5 bolivianos, after arguing with them for some time Rohnan politely told them in Spanish to go rip some Americans off. After taking a photo of a village I was approached by a young boy who demanded – “Pay Me!” For taking a photo of him (Many children make a couple of bolivianos off tourists for having a photo with their pet llama.) I explained to the young businessman that he wasn’t in my photo, therefore no bols for him…. Back at Copacabana in preparation for our typhoidal friend we were fitted with chemical suits and stocked up on latex gloves and alcoholic strips. Suffering from Amoeba, Typhoid, a chest infection, weak legs and a fractured elbow it was a surprising relief to see Steve at the bus stop. Needless to say he sleeps in an oxygen chamber in our hostel waiting our next move. We feed him cigarettes and antibiotics through a hole in the chamber. Our Bolivian visas are about to run out and we are making a swift dash to the border. Between you and I (all 1000 of you that have visited, thank you) we will probably trade Steve at the border for a llama that can carry our bags. Either that or a gringo with a real complaint. Till then, keep the monkey fluids to yourselves peoples.., Dave… (Nb Whilst I have added a humorous spin to young Stevens condition, it is quite serious. Tax deductible donations, questions, comments and sympathies can be forwarded to him, C/O stifnu@hotmail.com….. )
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