Who has not fantasized about Africa and dreamed about a classical African safari? We definitely had. In Swahili, the everyday language of East Africa, safari translates literally as "going on a journey". For us it meant turning our back on civilization and sleeping in the bush surrounded by wildlife.Meeting with tribes people was also a part of it. And last but not least, meeting Africa´s fabled storybook animals; elephants, lions, zebras and the rest - not cooped up in a zoo, but doing their own thing out on the boundless savanna. To be precise; the world romanticized by Karen Blixen´s "Out of Africa"; One of our long time favorite films.
Nairobi
Kenya is a fantastic place to take a safari with incredible variety of National Parks and reserves. The country is also home to the fearsome warrior tribe called the Masai´s.
But first we had to "hunt" for someone to organize our tour to be able to meet them. Nairobi was full of options. How to pick a good one? Our 3 new found Kenyan friends who followed us around for 2 days were of great help. Of course they wanted their commission but without them we would have spent days comparing tour operators. With their help we found Nairuku our Masai guide. His red-checked Masai clothes and beaded jewelery caused a small sensation in the hotel lobby when he came to pick us up. Every young Kenyan admires the Masai warriors for their bravery and they are looked upon with respect.
It was low season and the long rains had not yet transformed the National Park into a lush carpet, as is the case after the rains. The greenery provide much more cover for the wildlife to hide behind. But we were free to spot them on the dry Savannah at this time of the year.
Masai Mara National Reserve
The reserve comprises 1510 sq km of open grassland in the southwestern corner of the country with a variety of birds and mammals.
Our Masai driver/guide had a hawk-eye vision and could spot a lions ear at a distance of several kilometers. In 2 days we were lucky to have seen antelopes, giraffes, cheetahs and all of the "big five" (elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard and rhino). Some people come to Africa ten times without spotting a leopard. These animals are extremely shy. With Nairukus help we were fortunate to see him quite close. But best of all was the babies. It was spring time and everybody had little ones. What a delight. Especially to see the lion cubs playing together. Nairuku was able to drive up close with the land rover without disturbing the animals so we could shoot the perfect picture. As it was off season we were almost alone with the animals. The Savannah was not overcrowded with tourists except for the few safari cars that quickly drove up to us when Nairuku found one of the big cats. To be with him was better than Animal Planet as he was born among them and knew their characters and habits.
A cluster of thatched huts tucked away on a hillside with wonderful views became our lodge and resting place after bumpy days of game drives.
On the third day we were taken to the Masai village and had the privilege to meet the highly respected profet of the village. Sitting in the hut made of mud and dung, we observed in silence when he performed a ceremony in our honor and revealed part of our future. Here we had a first hand experience of the Masai culture and tradition. This ancient warrior people are fiercely proud and self reliant. Traditionally nomads, they have clung to their ancient way of life, living in harmony with their cattle, with whom they share a strong, almost mystical bond. Their tradition also includes several wife's. We heard of one of the chiefs having 38 wife's and 160 children!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To view the "big cats" you have to get up early when they are still active after their nightly hunting. It means you are woken up at 6 am. Shock horror. But after some days the early start became an enjoyable ritual. No two days were alike and we could never predict what new discoveries awaited us among the animals.
From Masai Mara we drove north through tribe villages, coffee and tea plantations and finally arrived at Lake Nakuru on the 6th day. This was a shallow soda lake with huge numbers of flamingos and more than 400 different bird species. A real ornithologist's paradise. However, even here pollution and pesticide run off from surrounding farms and massive deforestation within the area is threatening the bird population. We became aware of the delicate nature and environment we were driving through.
Samburu
Situated on the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River we found ourselves at the most beautiful safari lodge overlooking the riverfront. We were captured by the earthly rhythms of the green area around the river and fell asleep to the sound of chattering monkeys.
Closely related to the Masai and speaking the same language, the Samburu people occupy this arid area. As like the Masai, Samburu warriors are highly respected and perform their jumping ceremony as a proof of manhood. We enjoyed their nightly performance and tumbled in bed after a long days drive.
At Sweet water we met Morani, the friendly rhino and enjoyed a visit to Jane Goodalls chimpanzee sanctuary.
Sweet waters tented luxury camp gave us the romance and charm of the old safari experience in colonial style we had dreamed of. A canvas-cathedral handsomely furnished with mahogany furniture's, over sized poster beds made us feel like in a movie clip from "Out of Africa".
Then it was time to move on. Back to Nairobi and a 4 hour shuttle bus to Arusha, the only way to cross the border to Tanzania.
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