Viet Nam is completely different from the other countries I have visited in Southeast Asia. The French influence is profound in the food and architecture and even the language (Pho, the word for soup was created from the French feu [sic]). Baguettes are sold everywhere and are very light and fluffy due to the use of rice flour versus wheat. Then they put a decidedly Viet Namese twist, the sandwiches are filled with marinated vegetables and various meats and are sometimes grilled: Bahn Mi. My friend Amanda had found out about them in NYC and hunted the streets of China down, in the very Bowery and beyond. Here they are fantastic with a wide variety that can border on the ingenious.
The food in Viet Nam is fantastic! The only bad meals I have eaten were at supposed western-style restaurants: that will teach me to cater to my weaknesses! From here on I stick to local fare which is extremely cheap. Lunch cost $1.20 for a huge bowl of noodles in broth with fresh herbs, lime, chilies, and a gigantic piece of pork falling off the bone. Fantastic! That also included a glass of freshly-crushed sugarcane juice (my new addiction.) and for desert a banana split and pineapple shake.
Last night I went to a local place called Lac Canh that serves primarily seafood. You order what you want off the menu, then they bring a clay brazier full of burning charcoal. Not long after you get what you ordered, in my case of plate of 1" tuna steaks, grill them yourself on the hibachi, then dip them in the accompanying sauce. Fantastic. That meal cost me all of $4 for the Tuna, a large beer, a bowl of crab and asparagus soup (not that great, it was Chinese style and thickened with too much starch), and two very good spring rolls. I am torn deciding on what to do for dinner tonight! Try somewhere new or move on.
To facilitate my gluttony I decided to splurge and rent a motor scooter ($8 for two days). I've used the bike to see the sights, prowl the strip along the beach, and most importantly cruise for food. The street side stalls are THE best place to eat and the cheapest (see rant two paragraphs above.) Plus it is fun to hang out with the local people.
In Sai Gon I had Bo 7 Mon at least three times. In this food scenario you order a style of beef, mine was pan-fried, they bring yet another burner to the table with a shallow metal plate on top containing oil, garlic, and shallots. You cook the beef yourself, then make your own spring roll from the rice paper, heap of fresh herbs (e.g. basil, coriander, beans sprouts), and another heap of thinly-cut and fresh fruits (e.g. pineapple, some kind of pear-like fruit, star fruit), roll it all up and bite down.
OK, I am done with the food--for now...
The bike was quite scary to ride at first, since I haven't ridden a motor bike before. The traffic patters are completely foreign and seemingly chaotic. Actually it is chaotic, but there is an order to the madness. I did a test run in Sai Gon by renting regular bicycle and figured it out fast enough. The secret is to look out for yourself and let all the other drivers look out for themselves. I have had many scary moments, but have survived unscathed so far. Keep your fingers crossed. If I was injured I would have to be med-evaced to Bangkok or Hong Kong (hmmm, I haven't been to Hong Kong yet and I do have insurance that would cover the costs of the trip...)
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