With the Thai school holidays in full swing, we decided to visit our neighbouring country, Malaysia. As we only had a short time to take a trip, we agreed on saving the best…for first, and set off toward the majestic islands of Pulau Perhentian.
We left Hualamphong Station in Bangkok, and departed via train toward the Thai/Malay border, a trip which lasts the better of 24 hours. Fortunately if you are able to purchase a first or second class sleeper carriage ticket, the whole experience is quite neat as you arrive well rested and ready for more miles. On the other hand, if you are unable to get hold of a sleeper ticket, you will be awake for most of the night, either because of people selling goods between carriages, or aching bones from sleeping in a sitting position all night long.
Although very close in proximity and scenic beauty, there is no mistaking the complete cultural differences between the Thai/Malay countries.
Crossing the border at the shared Sungai Kolok post, one leaves behind the shyness of the most Southern Thailand, in exchange for a bold approach by anyone who drives a taxi, deals with currency or owning a boat which is your “only” opportunity to get to the islands.
Once we made our way through the very crowded border posts, we decided to push on towards Kuala Besut, a quiet fishing village which serves as the gateway toward the Perhentian Islands of Kecil and Besar. This being a very small town, with not much to offer had us settling into the (only) Yaudin Guesthouse, appreciating the much needed showers and tummy fillers of seafood and salad before calling it a night.
At 09:30 the next morning we made our way to the smaller island of Kecil by small speedboat, which drops you off at the pier of your preferred choice. We hadn’t arranged any accommodation beforehand, and were more than happy to take a stroll along the beach in search of something which suited our pockets and served likeable.
Fatimah Chalets are located on Coral Bay, a stretch of the island seemingly known for “budget” accommodation. They were the cheaper choice, and proved to be well popular with budget travellers and backpackers. After we settled in, we enjoyed lunch at Mama’s Restaurant before catching a swim and some sunshine. Our first day ended off with an enormous storm, which left things in chaos, but definitely cooled down!
On the opposite side of the island, you will find Long Beach. Connected to Coral Bay by foot path, one can take a walk through this jungle interior, to discover even more beauty on the other side.
We were in awe of the crystal clear waters and clean sands, and grabbed the opportunity to spend a whole day within this magnificent bay.
Combined swimming, snorkelling and tanning left us feeling thin, and just before we left the beach, we bid farewell with ice cold mango shakes, and a final stroll along the shoreline.
We had a taste of the majestic Malaysia, and enjoyed, thus far, what the country has to offer. Some day, we shall surely return and make use of the other variations on offer!
Until then….
Selamat jalan!
Tip of the Day:
Do not plan your trip according to the “arrival” times to or from the border post when travelling by train. On both occasions, we were behind scheduled time by at least three hours!
Arrival in Malaysia is usually very late in the afternoon, and it is advisable to spend the night somewhere.
Whether you travel by slow, express or special express train, you will always have a much delayed arrival time, I guarantee it!
Accommodation Costs:
Yaudin Guesthouse, 20RM per double room per night, shared WC & shower.
(Kuala Besut)
Fatimah Chalets, 30RM per double room & private WC & shower per night.
(Perhentian Kecil, Coral Bay)
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