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Beirut

2009-09-23, Beirut, Lebanon

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20/9/2009

Ever since I can remember reading the news there has been something about Lebanon written. The civil war, war with Israel, occupation by Syria, displaced Palestinians and terrorist attacks. As soon as I entered Beirut all of that is evident. Many buildings are pock marked with machine gun and mortar fire. The Holiday Inn (see pictures) still barely stands as a reminder of Lebanon’s sad and tragic past. The place is full of soldiers that are armed to the teeth and entire sections of the downtown area are sectioned off to prevent suicide bombers. Taking pictures was not a good idea.

I have not discussed politics with the locals but I did read that Hezbollah is rearming for another assault on Israel so more sadness and more tragedy.

Beirut is a nice and fairly expensive city. I am staying n a bombed out building (literally) for 30 usd a night. Food can be cheap but going out at night can be expensive.

The people are very friendly and helpful and seem to enjoy life despite what I wrote above.

After a couple of days I met up with my buddy Eli who works as the chef at the camp in Yemen and lives in North Lebanon which is only 1.5 hours by car from South Lebanon.

It was great to have a local as a tour guide as I get to see things that would normally be a bit of effort to see otherwise. This includes the incredible Jeita Grotta which is a large cave with stalagmite formations that look like evil, gothic carvings. They are believed to be millions and millions of years old.

I have also visited several Crusader Castles including the one in Byblos which claims to be the oldest inhabited city on earth.

23/9/2009

I am not making this up.

I arrive in the northern city of Tripoli (still Lebanon-not Libya) and Eli tells to be careful as it can be a dangerous city (many car bombings and attacks against Westerners). I find a “hotel” and coincidentally this was has been bombed a few years ago as well. I drop off my pack and set out for a walk. As soon as I turn the corner I walk into the middle of a back alley gun fight. I was impressed as to how much information my mind could assess in a short period of time (I generally don’t notice that the sky is blue). Two bald men in civilian clothes-one with a machine gun and one with a hand gun at about 20 meters apart. I was also impressed by my ability to get out of the way of gun fire.

With Steven Segal cool I duck into the nearest corner and hide behind the remains of another bombed out building. Let’s not forget that I have been training my entire life for a situation like this. Remember your training Frankie, remember your training. So I wait and yell out in French, English and Arabic to take the women and children but please don’t hurt me.

Now I have watched enough tv and lived in Yemen long enough to realize that guns make a loud noise when fired. After a few seconds I peak out from my little bunker to see that the friggin guns are plastic and the would-be assassins are just kidding around.

I think my reaction was warranted giving the country that I was in.

Once I collect my medal of bravery I could not stop laughing at this. I really thought I was staring down the barrel of a gun (again). Then I noticed for some strange reason that almost every third person was carrying a plastic gun (mostly kids) but it seemed a little odd.

As I was walking down the next street a little girl tossed her ice cream at me. I don’t know why she did but it was better than thinking I was going to be shot. I go into the next store I find to buy some water. The store is being run by twins that I would bet are at least 400 lbs each. I somehow think that I left Lebanon and was ported into a Kafka novel.

I am not making this up.

I cross over into Syria tomorrow


Next entry: Grapes, Grapes, Grapes

 
 

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