(Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN ESTONIA: AMAZON.COM)
The following day we traveled to the nearby island of Saaremaa.
Connected to Muhu by a causeway across a shallow inlet, Saaremaa is
Estonia’s largest island, almost 1700 square miles. Saaremaa, like Muhu,
was declared a frontier zone during Soviet occupation; therefore, travel to
and from the island was severely restricted. Saaremaa’s population is less
today than in 1930 for three reasons: German and Russian deportations
of Saaremaa’s citizens for slave labor during WWII, an exodus of able
Estonians to nearby Sweden in advance of Soviet reoccupation in 1945,
and the frontier zone restrictions during Soviet occupation. That is
beginning to change as many people from Sweden and Finland have
discovered Saaremaa’s charm and comparatively low real estate prices.
The day of our mid-September visit was windy, chilly, and rainy. We stayed
away from the larger towns, visiting windmills and the ancient churches, such as the ruined Poide, a massive 13th century medieval church now undergoing renovation.When one considers the final battle with the pagans was in 1227, this church being built not too long after is an amazing statement of the changed order.
Saaremaa is becoming a major summertime holiday destination.
Several new hotels have been constructed, marinas are under development,
the largest city Kuressaare has a population of over 16,000, and there are
plans for a golf course. The island is large enough to have this happen
without losing its charm, crafts heritage, and relaxing atmosphere, if
there is sufficient resolve and farsighted planning.
For our last night at Padaste Manor we could not resist viewing a
movie in the small, private theater. Elysee picked a CD from the owner’s
selection, drinks were made, chaise-like chairs adjusted, lights dimmed,
and we enjoyed a forgettable film in the fashion of faded Hollywood
moguls. Ah, the days of Cecil B. and Norma Desmond.
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