Excerpted from my book: OUR SUMMER IN SLOVENIA- AMAZON.COM
Vienna is no exception to most large world capital cities in having many dining options. From serving grand multi-waitered, multi-course meals in opulent surroundings, to more typical Viennese restaurants specializing in meals akin to but not quite the same as found in Germany, and lastly a class of restaurants called Heurigen, which roughly translates into wine taverns.
In 1784 Emperor Joseph II granted wine producers the right to sell their own product directly to the public from their own premises. This is common to the United States today, but was new in the 18th century. This reform took hold and the resulting taverns continue to flourish, especially in and around Vienna. The word Heurigen refers not only to the tavern but to the new annual vintage as well; analogous to the Nouveau Beaujolais in France. The new vintage year begins on St. Martins Day, November 11, and that vintage remains the Heuriger wine for one year, after which its status degrades to Alte or old vintage. St. Martin’s day would be an ideal time to be in Vienna; as good as Oktoberfest in Munich for staying up all night(s) partying. These days, there are Heurigens that sell not only a particular producer’s vintage but also provide an ordinary meal and native folk music, adding to the evening’s festivities. The later the evening becomes the more merrier the crowd, the long communal benches and tables encouraging getting to know each other as the wine flows generously, served up in traditional Heurigen plain quarter-liter glass mugs.
Elysee and I ventured to an area northwest of the city called Grinzing, which is reached by tram; similar to our now mostly defunct trolley car. The last stop drops you off on Cobenzlgasse, with a half-dozen Heurigen lining the narrow lane as they have done for 150 years. We selected the Bach Hengl, an old Heurigen whose building dated back over 200 years. The food was typical Huerigen fare; wine in clear glass mugs, a plate of sausage, chicken, cabbage and potatoes, long benches, and a wonderful father and son strolling duo playing the violin and accordion. Arriving guests soon succumb to the spirit, singing along, cheering on those who would attempt a solo performance, and being flirted with by the waitresses in a friendly, somewhat coquettish manner. It can get a bit “hokey,” but if you are with a group or in a crowd, it’s great fun.
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