What strikes me about Buenos Aires, apart from the fact that it’s an absolutely gorgeous city, is how much it reminds me of Australia. Not in it’s appearance, but in it’s atmosphere. I think after coming back from Africa I’ve looked into the notion of colonies a lot more than I did before, but Argentina was a colony of Spain and walking down the streets with the architecture and coffee shops, it feels more like Europe than I imagined.
Having Jon as a guide as been a blessing – he’s lived in this city for a few months and knows his way around and where the cool restaurants and bars are. His Spanish might be crap, but it’s a damn sight better than mine, although he does let on to know more than he does by just nodding and repeating “Si, si, si!” I’ve met a few of his friends and enjoyed a few long neck beers for only $1 each, ate fantastic food at aristocratic restaurants for a fraction of the cost in Australia and generally soaked up the beautiful atmosphere.
Jon took me to one of his favourite neighbourhoods, La Boca, a poor working class area. It appeared that they wanted to make the place feel happier than it’s underlying tone so they plonked a massive stadium, home to La Boca Juniors, where Maradona played, a painted the town bright colours. We ate down the tourist strip and watched some Tango shows on the street where they invited the audience to participate. When Jon saw a gentile old Argentinean man get up he told me he saw the same man last time he was there. “I thought his performance was spontaneous” remarked Jon “Maybe he’s employed to dance here to get the tourists in”. “Maybe he just likes dancing with provocative women” I replied.
We caught the slow train from Buenos Aires north to Posadas, on the border with Paraguay. We dubbed it “The Baltic Express” because over the two bone rattling nights it was freezing beyond belief. It was a peculiar train with no sleeping service, buffet car, heaters or lights at times. We had to close the shutters when we went through one town because of kids throwing rocks at the trains. We did however met some very friendly travellers from around South America and kicked back as they brought out their guitars and started to singing as the train rattled on down the track and for only 49 peasos (US$13) you can’t complain.
Next Stop “Paraguay” so until then “Aprenderé españo”
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