I trust you all enjoyed the holiday season, wherever you were. I understand Canada was covered with snow from coast to coast, which is most unusual, but most welcome, indeed. That reminds me of a joke I once heard.
As planned, a group of us went to a couple of coastal towns right smack in the middle of what is often referred to as Africa’s ‘armpit’ (have a look at your atlas, if you don’t know what I mean by that). We started in Kribi, located in the South Province of Cameroon, about 60 some-odd kilometres north of the border with Equatorial Guinea. Heat was the order of the day. I don’t know what the temperature was (nobody ever seems to know what the temperature is in Cameroon…usually the day is described as hot, cool, or rainy), but none of us were capable of walking more than about 100 metres without getting soaked in sweat. Definitely one of the most humid places I’ve ever been.
The town of Kribi doesn’t have a lot to offer in terms of ‘touristic’ amenities, although to the south of the town, there are several hotels, and the beaches there are as beautiful as any in the world. There wasn’t really a lot to do, except hang out on the beach, jump in the ocean, eat, drink, sleep, then repeat the whole cycle. I became quite adept at it.
Just a few hundred metres from where we stayed was the Lobe Falls, one of the few waterfalls in the world that empties directly into the ocean. The falls are located in a small bay, with local fishermen in their boats nearby, as well as shrimp traps set all around, making for a very appealing setting.
On Christmas Day (literally referred to as ‘Xmas’ by Anglophone Cameroonians), we took a trip by row boat from the top of the waterfall, upstream into the forest. Very beautiful, green, and dense with vegetation. About 45 minutes into the trip, our guide, Eric (I’m pretty sure there are more men named Eric in Cameroon than anywhere else in the world), pulled the boat ashore, and we walked inland for a few minutes to visit a Pygmy village. Some aspects of the way the Pygmies live are the same as they’ve been for generations. They live in huts made from local materials, are hunter-gatherers (still hunting with poison-tip arrows), speak only their local dialect, and have no services such as electricity or running water. However, this particular village wore western clothes, used western cooking utensils, and obviously made trips from time-to-time to Kribi to get some supplies with money that tourists brought.
There were about 30 Pygmy people living in the village we visited, and another 4 villages located further upstream on the Lobe River. Being so close to Kribi, and Kribi being a tourist destination, the people here are used to getting visitors on a regular basis. It is customary to bring them something when visiting, such as clothes or cigarettes (anyone out there NOT itching to say, “but that will stunt your growth!!”…? No, me either). They performed some traditional songs and danced for us, and we were encouraged to ask the chief questions about how they live (our guide, Eric, translated to the local language for us).
Overall, I have to say, I found the experience interesting, but somewhat exploitive. Before we left, another group of white tourists showed up, and the Pygmies had to repeat the whole song and dance (literally) again. I asked myself how many times a day they had to do this. Of course, they get something in return from the gifts and money we bring, but something about it still didn’t feel right to me. I had to smile to myself; as the adults were performing for us, I took a photo of a few of the children who were watching. As soon as I took the shot, the oldest boy looked at me and rubbed his fingers and thumb together, to indicate that I should be paying something for my photo. The traditions start at a young age here.
After Kribi, we went up to Limbé, which is less than two hours from Douala, Cameroon’s second major city (pop: about 1 million), and considered the financial capital of the country. We spent a couple of days in Douala before going to Limbé, just to have a look around. You may recall that I started my experience back in March in the political capital, Yaoundé. After having Bamenda as a home base since getting here, Yaoundé now looks like a metropolis. Douala, however, is a different story. My friend Steve, from the UK, said when he first saw Douala, “It’s a shame what the war did to this place.” Then we realize there was no war. The place is falling apart all on its own.
There are certainly signs of money in Douala, such as restaurants serving international cuisine, newer, privately owned cars (in Bamenda, most cars on the street are run-down taxis), cinemas, large houses in some areas, and other amenities that are taken for granted where I’m from in Canada, but are non-existent most places in Cameroon. However, the overall ‘feel’ of the city is less than pleasing.
Unfortunately, that can be said about most cities in Cameroon. Something that really sticks out in this country is the almost complete absence of any architectural appeal in the towns and cities. Most buildings are simple, concrete block or wood and plaster construction, cube shaped, unattractive, and often in disrepair. Granted, historically, Africans were tribal peoples who lived in small huts made of earth and leaves, so it wouldn’t be expected that one would find ancient buildings or other relics. However, there are very few interesting modern buildings, either. The Portuguese, Germans, French and British have all occupied this country at different times, but except for a few brick buildings constructed during the German occupation, there isn’t much to look at. Since gaining independence almost 50 years ago, Cameroonians haven’t constructed anything of interest, either. Douala was also horribly hot (it must have been close to 40 degrees), with no ocean breeze to ease the discomfort, so that tainted the experience as well. Except for an excellent meal at a Mediterranean restaurant and some awesome bakery visits at breakfast time (my favourite remnant of the French colonial period), the city left me with few good memories. Fortunately, we were only there for 2 days.
By the way, I’m not complaining, just observing. Ok, I’m complaining about the heat, but observing the rest.
Limbé was also hot, but on the ocean, and quite nice to visit. The beaches were not nearly as good as Kribi, but the town itself had a bit more to offer. Limbe is famous for its fish, with several vendors grilling fish right at the port where they’re brought in after being caught. Mostly bar and mackerel, the fish here is soooooo goooood. We also found a little café that served sandwiches with brie, iced coffee, and a host of other food items I’ve not seen since I arrived in Cameroon. Get this: the place was decorated with bamboo, volcanic gravel flooring, comfortable couches, and art on the walls. What I’m saying is that it had ambiance!!! That’s something else I haven’t seen since getting to Cameroon. The bar we spent New Year’s Eve at also had some fine ambiance, and we had a great time dancing the night away.
Overall, I had a very memorable, relaxing vacation. We had a great Xmas lunch on the beach, the beer was cold (most mimbo houses serve it at room temperature where I’m living in the NW Province), and my pants are now tighter than ever. I really hope the ‘gut over belt buckle’ look is at the height of fashion in Canada when I get home.
As a side note, as I finished writing this entry, the song, ‘Short Native Grasses’ by Corb Lund, where he sings about the prairies of Alberta, was playing on my laptop. It was then followed by the Rheostatics’ ‘Saskatchewan’. Is someone trying to tell me something?
Until next time!!
eb
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