Feliz Navidad everyone! I know I promised some of you a seasonal message to rival Her Maj’s so here it is, coming to you live all the way from El Salvador! I’ll probably have to keep it quite brief, though, as in about half an hour I’m due to head off for Christmas dinner with an assortment of the friends, colleagues and neighbours of Simon (whose wonderfully homely ‘casa’ I’m staying in),who I have been put in touch with. I’ve heard that there is going to be turkey, and about 7 or 8 of us around the table (including some kids), so anyone who was concerned about me having a measly and miserable Christmas dinner of dry tortillas and beans on my own can rest assured – I think I’ve landed on my feet here, and feel I’m going to be well looked after! I’ve managed to get my hands on a decent bottle of Chilean Cab Sav to take along, and, although I unsurprisingly couldn’t find mince pies or Christmas pudding in the local ‘supermercado’, I picked up some pineapple ‘semita’ (an apparently delicious traditional Salvadorean pastry), so that can count as a contribution towards dessert at this slightly alternative festive feast. I’m suddenly feeling quite excited about it!
Well, backtracking a bit, I was picked up and delivered here without any problems on Tuesday night by Stuart (Simon’s friend) and Nelson (Simon’s brother-in-law now, seeing as he has just got married to Nelson’s sister, Esme). It’s a bit strange staying in the house of someone I’ve never met before, but it does feel very welcoming and familiar. There’s Marmite and HP sauce in the fridge, and vast array of interesting looking books and DVDs on the shelves in the living room. Simon is an English teacher out here, so if I get bored I can read Arden’s Shakespeare or watch series 1-4 of ‘Teachers’! He and Esme, have left me a couple of notes instructing me to make myself at home, and stating that they will be back from their honeymoon on 31st in time for New Year. They’ve said I’m welcome to stay and celebrate with them, which I think I will do, as I definitely want to meet them both in person and thank them for all their kindness.
So Stuart called by for me early yesterday afternoon and took me on a bit of a tour of the neighbourhood. Our first stop was the local shopping mall, where we went to do a quick whizz around the supermarket to stock up on pre-Christmas stuff (Salvadorenos have their main Christmas celebration on Christmas Eve so everywhere shuts down after about 2.00pm).
I have to say I was quite surprised at how modern and commercial the mall and supermarket were. I feel slightly ashamed in admitting that I had imagined El Salvador to be quite a backward, developing country and it felt odd to find myself in a shopping complex much nicer, in fact, than any where I grew up. However, I’m aware that I am in quite a ‘nice’ part of town here, as opposed to other parts of San Salvador that are said to be decidedly ‘sketchy’ (a new term I keep using thanks to hanging out with too many Americans – sketchy basically equals dodgy). San Salvador’s wealthier families tend to live in this suburb (called Santa Tecla), and armed guards patrol the streets of spacious and elegant houses with neatly manicured lawns and 4 x 4s in the drives.
Stuart and Simon teach at a nearby school where a lot of these families send their kids, and Stuart told me yesterday that many parents insist on bodyguards accompanying their children on school outings, for fear of them being kidnapped (an experience that several of them have apparently actually been through). In the aftermath of the Civil War there still seem to be huge divisions between rich and poor here, fuelling an unfortunate frequency in gang-related violence, abductions and armed robberies. This has, to a certain extent, tarnished El Salvador’s reputation as a traveller’s destination. However, I don’t want to dwell on the shady side too much. I have also heard that there are many beautiful things to see here (including some great beaches on the Pacific Coast and some wonderful national parks) and I will take very good care of myself during my stay here in terms of staying safe. Simon’s friends all seem to be good sources of knowledge and advice about the country, and I’ve also got in touch with a few people from the Couchsurfing community here who I will hopefully be able to meet up with and spend some time with over the coming days.
After the supermarket sweep yesterday (all round the world on Christmas Eve supermarkets seem to be the same – chaos and commotion as people make a last chance dive for festive food goodies), Stuart and I went for a walk halfway up the volcano that overshadows the city, Volcan San Salvador. This gave me some great views and some welcome exercise. Then, that evening I went across the road for drinks with Simon’s neighbours, Mel and Chris (Mel being a teacher out here and Chris a travel writer) – an interesting couple with links to London, but lives and careers that have taken them all over the globe (they were living in Shanghai before San Salvador!). They and Stuart will be at the dinner later, along with a couple of other teachers and ‘ex-pats’. Speaking of which, I had better go and get myself ready to go.
What more can I say but a very Merry Christmas to you once again! I wish I could pull crackers with you all and give you kisses under the mistletoe. However, that being impossible, I’m thinking of you from across the globe and wishing you a fabulous festive time.
|  | 
|
