The words lazy disorder, poverty, shyster and the phrase “no hay problemo” neatly summarise our experience of Bolivia so far. We couldn't buy a 15 Boliviano hat because the smallest note we had was 20Bs. When we changed some US money, the money changer tried to bilk us for US$5. There is no ATM in Copacabana and all the banks are shut on Monday. A frustrating blank stare exacerbated my “Western Moments”. A terrific market where you can buy cheap Brazil nuts alleviated them.
The landscape is as beautiful as imagination and Cholitas in bowler hats are everywhere, haggling with each other while their impractical velvet skirts float on 12 petticoats. Lake Titicaca is amazing and even though it is being attacked by concrete hotels and plastic bags, it still manages to feed a million people with fish.
We spent one night in Copacabana and two on Isla del Sol. Copacabana is convenient but not much to look at. Isla del Sol is super tranquilo and very beautiful. A bit like Taquile but far more touristy. The geology is very striking with a set of strange looking hills that roll into the lake on the North side. A couple of Inca ruins up the Western end that we didn't quite get to.
We ate dinner in a little mud brick restaurant with a thatched roof. Husband and wife cooked dinner for 15 by gas and candle light. Traditional quinoa based food that took 2 hours to cook, but it sure was lovely when we got it.
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