Three historic cities within Rajasthan: Jodpur, Jaisalmer and Udaipur. Jodpur is dominated by an amazing uninhabited fort and is the worst place I have ever visited. The open sewers, streets strewn with litter, food for the cows which looks like vomit and runny cow pats made my stomach turn the second my auto-rickshaw dropped me off. To make matters worse I had to navigate cow corner with one of the horny types going for my rear end. So having worked out a detour in the light of day I was none too pleased when darkness fell to find myself disorientated and my foot in one of their runny numbers. It was good for the weight loss programme as I really didn't feel like eating that night! The sights I saw in Jodpur would put you off India for life: children doing number twos in the open sewers, old men on rubbish dumps and a dog suckling a cow - it seems like a town that has just gone a bit Pete Tong. Jaisalmer on the other hand is a beautiful old habited fort surrounded by a small desert town. Cars are unable to get into the fort because of the narrow pathways and is a cows delight as they only have to deal with people and motorbikes. The town feels a lot less menacing and friendly as as everyone seems to be related. It is also very colourful due to all the colourful turbans worn by the men. Udaipur which I have always wanted to visit and stay in the hotel on the lake (in your dreams Rabbitts) was a bit of a let down until you head out onto the lake. The views of the City Palace, Lake Palace and Jag Mandir seem so much more romantic from the water. The town however is full of the usual tourist tat but with upmarket cows: painted red horns!
This week I have taken all modes of transport and my first taxi trip, which I was trying to avoid but Cochin airport was too far to contemplate in an auto-rickshaw. We hurtled along the highway at 6am over and undertaking anything in our way. I have flown some great propellor planes this week: Jet Airways (best food and flight attendants), Kingfisher (most cheesy CEO). In small propellor aircraft you really feel as if the Capitan is flying the plane as the descents are much more rapid and exciting. I've been on yet another goverment bus for 5 hours from Jodpur to Jaisalmer. The locals think I am strange not getting tourist buses but who wants to sit with a dull bunch of tourists? I met three lovely boys: 2 Hindu (wearing earrings in both ears) and one muslim boy in traditional dress with so many holes in his shoes and absolutely filthy but with the sweetest smile ever. All three boys were as happy as larry with their pens unlike the snatching grubs of Jodpur. I saw camels on the main road, Peacocks everywhere and langur monkeys surveying the road from former ornate buildings. Sadly I encountered my first threatning behaviour from a youth who got on an hour from Jaisalmer and decided to follow the guide books advice and make a public show that I was not happy with his behaviour. A loud F off as I moved seats meant I left him to face the shouting from fellow male passangers!
Having given up tea and coffee for lent, well just in India to be honest, I went down with the trots in Jaisalmer. I was up all night but with a sweet SLOW auto-rickshaw driver to Jaisalmer airport and a yes another taxi from Udapur airport I arrived in one piece without any disgracing stops!
I haven't really met many people on my trip so far and am more than happy on my own. I'd prefer to be on my own rather than have some bore droan on about nothing - I've overheard a few and kept my distance. I did, however, meet two Irish lads from Cork in Jaisalmer who had done exactly the same route as me but had more of a hell raising time of it - bit boring sometimes being a girl on your own as you have to be very careful. Anyway I believe in quality over quantity on the traveller types and they made me laugh no end that night and ever so charming too. I said that I had been to Goa ten years ago to which one said "well that must have been on a school trip then" Top brownie points to the boys from Cork.
You get what you pay for in India, well that is when you are not getting ripped of which is nine tenths of the time. I have stayed in mainly guest houses rather than hotels and the difference is quite alarming. I am finally staying in one run by a Dutch lady who has lived in India for 13 years and for 300 rupees yes 50 rupees (60 pence) more than the usual 250 rupees I have sheets (CLEAN), towel (NO HOLES), a mirror, soap and yes HOT water. 60 pence and I feel like I am living like a queen. No loo roll though as a quick splish splash sorts out anything!
Finally I have managed to wipe all of my photos when I was uploading them onto this site. A man in the know says that they could be recoverable on my card - now that would be a miracle and a challenge for week four!
|  | 
|
