Decided to leave in time to walk to the train station. Knew there was a taxi queue nearby, but couldn't count on it at 6:45am. Sure enough, no taxis! Walked briskly to train station in plenty of time. Exchanged a small amount of euros for Romanian lei at the station. Police were shooing away the many gypsy beggars!
The train station had no “big board” that I could see, so I went to a ticket agent to ask about track number for my train-- I had gotten my ticket back in Budapest. She said track #5 and I found a young lady who confirmed that I, indeed, was at the train headed back to Budapest. Before departing, I met a Norwegian college age backpacking couple and struck up a nice conversation with the guy. He said I'd love Helsinki and Stockholm.
There were compartments in the train again, not dingy, but certainly shopworn. Found my seat and realized I had the compartment to myself. Romanian passport check at Episcopia Bihor was routine but Hungarian check at Biharkeresztes was NOT!
MADE THE MISTAKE OF TAKING THE PASSPORT OFFICER'S PHOTO while he was working on my passport using some sort of machine, not just a hand stamp. He shouted "NO!", took my passport and went outside the train, presumably to confer with his superiors. My life passed before me while I waited, but the passport was returned in a couple of minutes. It seemed like an hour-- whew!
Arrived Keleti train station, ate something and headed to the "international" ticket office to see about getting my ticket to Vienna two days early. No dice-- ticket agent insisted I could get it at any teller [not true], and only on day of departure. I was skeptical! While in line I had heard one Brit very experienced with eastern Europe travel helping another guy with his troubles and questions.
The experienced Brit told about trying to get through Moldova to Ukraine. There is a “bandit country” known as “Trans-Dneister”, a sliver of land between Moldova and Ukraine which tried to force him to pay $75 for admission to Ukraine. I recounted my story, which seemed tame in comparison.
Checked back in (once again) at the Agape Guesthouse-- got the same room. Walked around Pest a bit, had a cheap, large meal-- dinner, I guess, at a place right next to my room, then did some more walking. By sheer luck I ran into the Norwegian couple I met earlier enjoying some drinks at an outside café. The guy asked about my credit card problem (from the pickpocketing). Very nice people-- they spoke impeccable British. Eventually took Metro back to my room.
--END 1 JULY--
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