As I said in the last entry, this trip would allow us to experience one of the benefits of the way we had organised our holiday.
We left Lyon with the idea of spending a night in Marseilles before heading off to Nice. While we were on the train though we took out the tourists bible (Europe on a Shoestring) to do some reading up on the city. We both got the impression (rightly or wrongly - we weren't to fnd out) that Marseilles was a bit of an old industrial port city. So we decided at the last minute to change our plans (which was no problem because we had no pre-booked accommodation and flexible rail passes!)and jumped off the train in Avignon.
After a short hike to find some accommodation we took a self guided tour around the city and it wasn't long before we felt we had made the right decision in staying. The city's main claim to fame is that this is where the Pope's transferred the Papacy during the middle ages when there were troubles in Rome that prevented them from operating there. As a result of once having one of the world's richest institutions in your backyard, the city itself and the surrounding countryside are quite impressive with some very pretty scenery. That evening we made our way to the city centre (set below the walls of the Papal Palace) and ate al fresco in the piazza while appreciating the setting sun on what was a nice warm evening. This was quite magical and definitely one of those moments that leaves a lasting impression. The evening was once more topped off with a nice stroll and more gelati (stracciatella was definitely becoming a favourite).
Again with only one night in the city, we were up early the next morning to make the most of the three quarter day we would have. We checked out of the hotel and headed to one of the city's most famous structures, the Pont D'Avignon (made famous in a nursery rhyme - so Eli tells me!). We then took a walk along the outer wall of the city (the centre is enclosed) and made our way into the Papal gardens behind the actual palace. As the gardens are tiered, we climbed up to the top level and were rewarded with a magnificent (and peaceful - it was still relatively early) view over the Rhone. After noting the serenity (marked with the immortal phrase "How's the serenity?") we were jolted into the awareness that it was Sunday morning by a guy passed out at the bottom of a statue of Mary after too big a Saturday night. We then headed toward the palace itself with the intention of taking a tour around. While not as impressive as St Peter's, the palace did have some significant riches intact and definitely exhibited a rustic charm. Spread over a large area and rising a number of stories, the palace is without doubt the dominant structure in the city. After two hours walking through the building (and about 40 mins trying to find Eli - we got separated inside with one of us waiting at the entrance while the other was at the exit) we grabbed our packs and headed back to the train station.
Our next destination was one we had been anticipating for quite some time; Nice and Monaco.
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