Buenos Aires is home to 13 million. Yet the neighborhoods that have formed as a result are much more diverse than the actual inhabitants. - I swear, I have seen merely one Asian, and no blacks since arriving last week. Maybe Hitler would have approved, outside of the strong Jewish population. Jacey and I decided to take a few days to explore the city on foot, as we know nothing about it, and probably should, if we are to find an apartment and jobs and make it our home.
Keep in mind that my interpretation of these areas comes from one or two afternoons-worth of exploration. So if you’re planning to rent your own apartment in Buenos Aires, I suggest you do a bit more research.
Las Cańitas is about a 10 pesos ($3 US) cab ride from the city center and most sites, but it aptly competes for the limelight. Perhaps the allure is that its enclave of low buildings and overarching trees hardly seems a part of the rest of the city. It’s the youngest and trendiest barrio, boasting lazy outdoor cafés in the afternoon, and booming, brilliantly lit bars and clubs at night.
Palermo, which I think includes Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, is another hip neighborhood that promotes hedonistic activities. The shops are quirky and expensive, and the restaurants authentic and distinctive. Women in gleaming sunglasses sit with crossed legs, and men let the smoke of their cigarettes waft liberally. Paris Hilton would surely enjoy investing here, if she’s reading this!
Recoleta is more urban than the former districts I have mentioned. Not like New York, but romantic and refined as the postcards of Paris. Old fashioned chocolate shops with bells on the doors, stylish clothes adorning waif mannequins in storefronts, and shimmering jewelry nestled in glass that line the streets. Everywhere you turn, there seems to be a park to rest in and dog poop to watch out for.
Last stop on the frantic tourist jaunt, San Telmo. Visitors are advised to be extremely vigilant when entering this community. I arrived clutching my purse, but the funky, vibrant energy effortlessly made me feel buoyant and alive. This is what I actually expected Buenos Aires to be, and here is the paradox: It remains this way because this is what tourists want. You will find a man and a woman dancing the tango to old fashioned recordings. And people doing all sorts of tricks on the street (see photos). The stores are dusty and brimming with old objects, and I savored sifting through the Sunday market in Plaza Dorrego, where I could marvel at the beauty of such withered things.
But so much more has to happen.
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