Ok, so we said we didn’t know what adventures were in store for us back in Malawi, but we were sure they would come. Today was one of those days. It was a “resting day,” between our work with the Bethel Circuit around Lilongwe and our next stop, Mchinji. We decided that we did not need a “resting day” as such and that we needed to see more of this amazing country. So with Grant driving, Herb in the shot-gun seat, Sue, Rhoda and Pastor Steve cozily in the back, we headed east toward Lake Malawi.
In a flash we were back to thatched roof mud houses , small roadside villages and an excellent paved road all the way to the lake. Of course, we had to have our share of goats, people, and bike encounters along the way but that is a given by now! The countryside, although Spring Brown, is beautiful, with mountains and valleys most of the way. As we neared the lake the land flattened out and roadsides were dotted with huge piles of wrapped bundles of thatching reed, as well as baskets small and large, toys made out of wicker, mats of all sizes and shapes and beautiful wicker furniture. Rhoda, who is from the area near the Lower Shire River, commented on how similar the landscape was to her home, with vast open fields dotted with mammoth baobab trees.
In about an hour and a half we arrived at Salima, a good sized town near the lake and center for a large Muslim community. Salima was a “port” city for the Arab slave trade that took people from this area across the lake and up to the Middle East. Apparently many of the Muslim slave traders stayed on. We continued on to the lakeshore at Senga Bay, a big commercial fishing area as well as tourist area with several nice lodges and resorts on the lake.
Grant, Rhoda and Steve were especially looking forward to having some nice fresh fish, which we found at the Livingstonia Beach Hotel, a beautiful beachside resort with a lodge, swimming pool and rondovals – little round thatch roofed cottages. We had lunch at their outdoor restaurant overlooking the lake. Birds were singing and flitting around the garden full of plumeria trees, hibiscus and other lovely flowers and trees. We just drank it all in, including the excellent fish. Chambo is the local favorite and although full of bones, a truly delicious tender-flake fish. We had a walk along the shoreline and also toured one of the rondovals – maybe for a future Malawi jaunt. We ran into a group of about 15 Americans who flagged us down, wondering what WE were doing in Malawi. So here we were, chatting with folks from Dahlonega, GA who had spent two weeks working at an orphanage in Salima. They were having their final day celebration with lunch at the hotel. They had also been charmed by Malawi and the wonderful people here. And to us, that Southern accent sure sounded a lot like home!
On the way out of the hotel there was much Chichewa chatter going on and we finally figured out that there was to be an effort to locate some fresh fish to take home. So off we went, down little dirt lanes, stopping to ask along the way and finally having to park some distance from the beach and walk the rest of the way due to deep sand in the road. But persistence paid off and we found a big ferry point and fishing boat area on the lake, full of folks piling all kinds of stuff and people onto a rather sketchy looking wooden ferryboat along with a beach full of fishermen untangling nets, women washing clothes in the lake, naked little kids racing around in the water and climbing on the dugout canoes lining the shore. And we found fish. Many strings of fish. We watched while Rhoda and Steve did some serious haggling – Grant was an easier touch, we guess, as he had a string of fish in no time. We decided that yes, we really were getting to see the “real” Malawi!
When we got back at the car we noticed Grant and Steve busy with their big strings of fish and we had to check to see if we were REALLY seeing what we thought we were seeing. Yes, sure enough….the strings of fish were being neatly tied to the windshield wipers and off we drove, fresh chambo plastered against the hood of the car all the way back to Lilongwe! They said they didn’t want to smell up the car……We didn’t ask whose turn it was to wash it when we got back!
We learned that it was Rhoda’s first time to see beautiful Lake Malawi. On our return trip we stopped along the road to buy a trunk full of green mangoes for her to sell in her shop. At another stop we checked out the folks making and selling wicker furniture for almost nothing. Not only was it a fun day but also rewarding in that we helped our friends enjoy a lovely little corner of their country…and there is promise of fish for dinner tomorrow night.
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