yesterday i went to Nma-Tso lake, which is the highest lake in the world. i think we were at around 16,000 feet. i could feel the altitude and a couple of people puked :( The color was this fabulous blue and the air was so clean. It is a holy lake and the Tibetan pilgrams walk the perimeter, it takes 12 days and they walk a few steps and then lie on the ground face down, prostating themselves the whole way. its a trip to watch their devotion.
Today i went to jonking temple which was facinating because a lot of pilgrams go there as well, the entire front of the temple was covered in people bowing and praying. I think the most moving part is that the pilgrims bring wax to pour into the temple candle bowls to keep the fires lit. i can't explain what about it was so incredible, i guess just the importance of that flame. And they bring in yak butter and cheese and milk for the monks to consume. And the monks chant in rhythm in this low gutteral sound in unison - after this post i am going to swing by the temple again for their nightly service, which i hope to hear from the outside. Its an oddly peaceful sound.
The other interesting thing about tibet is the noises. i feel they are somehow heightened now, maybe because i am paying close attention. The prayer flags at the lake made this whispering whap whap whap sound with the waves of water in the background. And the bicycle taxis have these sweet jingly bells that go ting ting ting as they ride, and the drivers whistle to let you know they are coming. and the pilgrims, they wear these wooden gloves and shoes, they clack them together at their forhead, heart and above their heads and then slide onto the pavement so it sounds like Clack clack clack whooooosh, and then the clackity of getting up and doing it again. The old tibetan women mumble prayers - like songs, and swing their prayer wheels - whooooooo whoooooo mumble mumble. I miss the silence sometimes, but all these new sounds are so delicious!
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