This trip was designed for a journey inward, to reflect and ponder and change toward an improved self. But Bali is too wonderful! There has actually been little time for reflecting. Us girls spend the mornings at yoga and surf lessons, the afternoons in the water or bartering for tattoos (temporary mostly) and beer, and the evenings are spent laughing over long dinners and riding on the backs of moterbikes to sunset destinations. However, even though surfing doesn't allow much time to think, I have learned valuable lessons from the ocean.
Patience
In my 'normal life' I have none. I simply cannot wait for things to happen, try to force results, and get terribly bent out of shape at the slightest hint of a cue. The other day I got my right hand artistically hennaed and am sure I heard the man tell me to wait 20 minutes for it to dry. However I got very excited watching some beach surf activity, couldn't stay still any longer, jumped up, smudged the hand and now have a appendage that looks quite dirty instead of delicately painted. In the ocean trying to catch a wave you must have patience. Trying to catch just any one that heads your way will end in your demise. I learned to sit out in the lull for sometimes as much as 20 minutes waiting for the right sized wave (not too big, not too small....juuussst right) coming at the right time. It gets to be a feeling--knowing which wave is meant for you. In the beginning I was overeager (as i am with, ahem, many things) but just got beat up by the pounding surf. Once I decided to listen to my instructor, and feel the ocean I had much much better luck getting up and turning with success. Now I need to find patience in every aspect of life....if we wait, it will come.
Timing
They say that timing is everything--for careers, relationships, and even happy hour. (here in Bali they go until 9pm!)
This is certainly true for surfing. Some days have terrible conditions, and you just have to know to sit out for a bit. And once the conditions are decent, you still have time the waves. Knowing the precise moment to stand up was very difficult for me. Too soon and the wave knocks you over, too late and you gain no speed and slowly drop down behind the peel. As with everything you start to get a feel for when to stand, when to turn, and when to have that much talked about patience and sit a few out. Back on the beach, timing is also important for finding the right beach chair. Too early and you won't know what the best people watching spot it, too late and no chairs will be left. We befriended some locals and reserved our beach spots every day at 11am.
Courage
Once you fall off the horse, you must immediately get back on. Yes. After a late night and little sleep I had a bit of a disaster in the waves. After struggling to get myself up on the board, I had the wipeout of my life. I was plunged deep under the water and then sprang back up only to have my board bounce back and slice open an area on my head. I grabbed the board and swam back to shore not sure exactly what happened. Then I felt something sticky trickling down my face. Blood was gushing out of my head, streaming down my body practically blinding me. Everyone came to the rescue to walk me back up the beach. For a brief instant I felt kindof cool. Look how tough I was--bruised legs and now all bloody! Much cooler than the wimpy non surf girls in their fancy bikinis. Then I panicked. How big was the cut? Did the bang cause brain damage of any sort? Could I remember my name? Oh God, if I needed stitches--they would have to shave my head!
Luckily for me the cut was minor. I had every surfer on the beach examine my head and they let me know this was nothing compared to what they had seen before. Just needed to clean it out with alcohol, not wash my hair for a day, and I'd be good as new. So..the next day I went back into the water, albeit a bit scared and still with a headache. However I forced myself to paddle out there, face the waves again, and proceeded to have the best surf day of the week. In fact, it was the only day I was good enough to try out the smaller board.
No regrets
Not that I am totally obsessive (no comments from the peanut gallery please) but I have regretted my actions, words, thoughts in every phase of my life. If I only would have done X differently that relationship would have worked out. If I had said Y, I would have landed my dream job, if I only woule have been less aloof or less eager, etc etc. Countless hours have been spent tossing and turning in my bed rehashing the past and thinking of the things I SHOULD have done. I create little stories in my head based on what would have happened.....even though it may never have really happened at all.
You cannot do that in surfing. Even though I could easily see myself spending half of the afternoon rehashing why I didn't do that turn correctly, or keep my knees bent, there frankly isn't any time. As soon as I would start to think too much of my past wave another wave would come and knock me over. I had to stay alert and in the present at all times. I realized that the past really doesn't matter. For every bad wave, there is another good one coming. For every wipeout there is a stellar ride. I MUST apply this to my life. If I keep trying to redo the past in my mind, I'll miss all the other big opportunties out there.
And since I am returning to San Francisco with a fresh start, I am anticipating lots of big waves.
|
