The best of the Caprivi Strip - Ngepi Camp July 29-August 6
As we were packing up and leaving Drotsky's camp, we had the invasion of the "things snatchers" or better known as vervet monkey's! We had stuff to strung out and so they gave us a run for the money but didn't get anything.
Drotsky's gave us a ride to the border with Namibia. Most border crossings are clear customs in country you are in, then drive the 100 yards or so to the border post with the country you are entering. This only is a problem when you do not have transporttion and have to carry all those bags yourself.
Ngepi's new camp manager Menno came to pick us up. He was very personable from the beginning and did enjoy birds so pointed a few out to us as we drove through the edge of Mahango Park. The bird people, whoever they are, have decided to change some of the names of birds. I'm not sure I like all the changes. For example, the bateleur, a beautiful raptor, is being changed to the short tailed eagle. Bateleur means tightrope walker in French which is more appropos I think.
Got to Ngepi--------the same beautiful setting as I remembered. Menno was able to put us in campsite #2!Decided to have hamburgers to celebrate. Unfortunately, our order went in the same time as a group of kids and add that to the slow pace of the kitchen, lunch as awhile coming. Also, two of our burgers got taken by the kids--starving I guess. Enjoyed the sunset deck and then went and set up camp. When we got ready to fix dinner we discovered one of the many bags we had was missing. Unfortunately, it was Naxdi's red backpack which she had brought to fill with souvenirs. Fortunately for us it was filled with cans and pasta, etc.We are not sure where this happened but it did remind us of the fact that you do need to be careful with your belongings even in a camp like Ngepi where you can be lulled into complacency. Good to see some of the same staff there. Joseph, who works the front desk, Mr. "Get a Life". Always has that wonderful smile and is ready to help you with whatever you need. Also got to meet the other new manager, Adelle. She has a background in hospitality and is also very friendly.
After dinner went to the bar and there was Erasmus! Good to visit with him. We also talked to a woman we had met in 2000 in Zimbabwe at the Backpackers and Overlanders where we stayed. She is still in the overland business. Discussed a little about the situation in Zimbabwe and then off to bed.
The next day Bassie, another one of our old friends took us into town to resupply. Robert bought a whole chicken and when we got back checked out one of the potjie. This is a cast iron three-legged pot that you use over an open fire. They are wonderful to cook in. He fixed a meal of chicken, potatoes, onion, garlic, split peas, and marsala sauce. It was wonderful and the best part was that there was enough for us to have for dinner also. Spent most of the day lazing around. Jerry and Naxdi checked out some of the ablution blocks and had a good laugh. There is a new shower down by the Holiday Inn bath that is quite whimsical. They also checked out the new treehouses and announced they were quite nice, especially the hammock! There were some elephants tha came down to the area across the river from us. Ngepi has put out some salt for them so it seems to be attracting them. Did got to visit with Ras more that night because it was one of the quieter nights.
Ngepi has been discovered, has won awards for Camp of the Year for Getaway magazine, and so some nights can get quite hectic! The first night we were there, there were 147 people staying there! You still can relax quite easily while you are here--each camp has vegetation between it and the ones beside it so you can feel alone with the river in front of you.
The next morning we decided to do our own bird walk kind of following the path we took two years ago with Byron. Ran into Christoph, Ngepi's professionally trained guide. He has been sick with malaria and was just getting over it. He recognized us and was glad to see us. Our walk took us past some of the villages. Of course kept our wits about us because, like last time, some of the lions from Mahango Park had gotten out. Everyone told us they would not come this far. Maybe not, but we did see plenty of evidence of hippo and elephant that had been out where we were. Saw the beautiful Meyer's parrot screeching overhead and then entertained us in the trees. Unfortunately, our batteries went dead so we had to just record them in our memories for the moment. Walked back to fix breakfast and the big tree right as you get inside the Ngepi gate was loaded with small birds. Robert counted 11 different birds. I ran back to get batteries but alas, too late. We did see some of them later.
Breakfast was pure comfort food. Jerry had cooked some potatoes last night and so we had potato and egg tacos. We had bought these wraps when we were in Francistown and they were still good and so we all enjoyed it immensely!
Went back walking after breakfast and found our way down near the river but had to cut back in because it was a little too swampy and not too sure where we would end up. Unfortunately, on way back managed to walk up dogs at one house. It was Cosmos's home and he was there for a break. Apologized and on our way.
Came back and got spring rolls and a salad and sat on deck and visited with a couple that are quite the travelers themselves! Told us about the sardine run that happens off the coast near Durbin anywhere from May through November. It sounds like it would be something to see. Full moon. Elephants were out again entertaining us. Met a couple from Holland, he originally from Italy, that live in Rotterdam. They have been to the United States, and more specifically have actually traveled on the Moki Dugway in Utah!
Called it an early evening because we are going on bird walk with Christoph in the morning.
The bird walk was very enjoyable. Naturally Christoph knows where to go so we wandered past the swamp, through tall grass, openlands and the river so got to see about 40 different birds. Some of the new ones were the pgymy goose, the pearl spotted owl, canary weaver, and cistacola. Christoph showed us how the local men fish using these fish baskets to catch the fish. They actually make a dam-like area where the fish are forced into and then into the basket. We also got to observe a malchite kingfisher for quite a while. As we were walking along the swampy area, Robert and Christoph scared a water monitor (lizard) and off he went into the water. The dog that was with us tried to catch it, but no luck! Glad it wasn't a crocodile! Reminds you once again that you are out in the wild.
Afternoon spent washing clothes and relaxing. That afternoon, 42 elephants were across way. They were taking dust baths, drinking water and trumpeting, and making a growling like noise. If we hadn't seen them, we would have probably mistaken that noise for lions growling!! Was great fun watching them. Fixed a nice pasta and vegetable dinner.
The bar scene was quite lively. Visited with Francesco and Annika (Rotterdam) and an overland truck driver we had met two years ago and others. Did the Springbok dance for old times sake. It was the evening we all stayed up way to late and had too much fun.
The next day, Naxdi went into town with Annika to get another chicken and other supplies. Robert and I walked from one end of the camp to the other. We got to explore the tree houses. They are nice and many of them have a great view of the river from bed. Walked to the house that is being redone for Menno and Adelle. On the way back, we saw fresh hippo tracks in the sand inside the fence! Explored treehouse #1, and saw about 10-15 elephants across the way. They are very noisy this time. Christoph said this was just their way of communicating. They actually go on even at night. Quite a sound from inside your tent!
Dinner was delicious--another chicken in the potjie. We didn't go on the Mokoro ride but Francesco and Annika did. Invited them over for some of dinner and they told us all to come down to their treehouse--they were having a braii and fire. We went down there and Francesco had sticks with steaks and sausage skewered on them, He also had potatoes and onions skewered likewise! It was quite a sight. He had built a fire and was trying to use the coals but they cooled too fast so he was hanging them over the fire and cooking them. We then decided he was the "Spaghetti Tarzan" for his ability to cook using sticks over the fire! We all ate something - I had one of the perfect onions which indeed was delicious. Sidenote: The four of us call ourselves "the hyenas" because we are always ready to eat any leftovers. For example, the past two nights, there have been leftover desserts, which Menno has given to us! We even are pretty good at imitating the hyena whoop!
All went down to the bar. There was a overland group that got everyone up dancing and having a good time. Another fun and late evening!
The next day was another lazy one. It is really the place the relax and enjoy just hanging out. Annika and Naxdi went on a village walk. Francesco came down to our campsite and gave us a geography/culinary lesson on Italy. Made me hungry just listening!
The night before we had convinced Francesco and Annika to stay another night so we all went to the bar for their last evening. We also met a couple on their honeymoon that were from Holland. We quizzed them a great deal about their truck. They had gone through a company that sells you a car and then you are guaranteed a buyback when you leave. It is something for us to think about for next time.
The next day was pancakes for breakfast. Jerry was cooking them and having a great time flipping them. We also finished off our fruit. This is one thing to note about Ngepi. They are truly a bush camp. You either bring in your own supplies or eat their menu. We did a little of both. Of course our meals sometimes were boring (choice of words) You know cabbage, carrots, onions, squash, etc do not ruin so had them a lot. Don't think we want potatoes for awhile. Jerry, Robert and I went on another bird walk. Hit some of the same areas as before but was still enjoyable. Did see the crimson boubou and some others I was not able to identify.
Came back, lunch, short nap and then time for the Mokoro ride. I took my umbrella to protect myself against the sun at that time of day. Quite a few laughs but it really did the job! Our poler was a guy in training. Couldn’t have been more than ten or eleven but he did just fine. Went up in the swamp area to see the elephants that were down at the salt. Most have moved off and so we went back out in the main channel. Looking at birds and I spotted a flamingo! While we were all enjoying that, up pops a hippo nearby! We all were quickly poled to the other side where it was shallower. The theory here is to keep us in shallow water so they can’t pop up ad surprise us. Christoph knows the river and how to read the hippo’s behavior so all was fine. We got to a sandbank and stopped and Christoph said were going for a short walk to see the hippos resting. The walk was through high grass so I opted to stay behind with another couple. We visited and when group got back, Robert said it was just as well I didn’t go because they were up close and personal with the hippos and a tour boat came in really close and the hippos jumped up and moved—fortunately in the opposite direction from them! The rest of the ride was nice, went up in a channel and saw a water monitor, more birds and just nice scenery. Went back to the area where the elephants were and moved in quietly with all the mokoros lined up facing out in case we had to make a quick getaway! Was nice to see the elephants up so close and hear them having a good time. Poled back through the tall grass and then back to camp.
The rest of the evening was uneventful. Decided to eat breakfast at the restaurant. Bacon and eggs—not really good for you but sure tasted nice. Menno had called Intercape Mainliner (bus company) and they had seats available so we decided we were going to leave the same time Jerry and Naxdi did and head on to Chobe. The next day I rode into town with Menno to get another chicken and some supplies for the bus trip out from here. Got back in time to put the potjie on with chicken, butternut squash, onions and garlic. Was able to cook before we took off on a game drive through Mahango. We saw most of the usual suspects and roan but no sable. This is the only park that we have seen roan and sable. Both such beautiful animals. Did not get back until almost 7:00p.m. but the food was ready. Another quiet evening until you go to bed. Elephants trumpeting and growling throughout the night. There are some francolins(birds) that hang out near our tent and when something startles them off they go with their call. Early morning, the birds begin their morning calls so it is quite a symphony.
My advice: Ngepi is so far from most services that you pay only at the end of your stay because it is hard for them to have change, etc. I have developed a system using a notecard to mark down everything I purchase. When we paid our final bill, we were almost exactly the same! Got ourselves packed up, ate the last of the potjie and went to say our goodbyes to everyone. Hate to say goodbye to this place but hopefully we will return. Had nice visit with Menno and Adelle, and Margie’s friends and were off to bed by 10:30 because we have a 4:00 wakeup and not sure what the day will bring!
Up at 4:00 and Bassie was there to pick us up and got to the station by 5:30. The bus was an hour late but Bassie stayed with us which was nice!
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