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Swaziland- Smokeyland
July 18-19
We left Kruger Park via the Crocodile Bridge gate and were on our way to Swaziland. Swaziland is an independent kingdom surrounded by South Africa. Traveling through Swaziland is the shortest route to reach the area of St. Lucia and Hluhluwe-Infolozi so this is why we chose this route and also to see what the country was like. We only went through a small portion so our impressions are not of the entire country. We called it smokeland because unfortunately they were burning their sugarcane fields and so it was quite smoky as we drove along.
We found this to be true in much of South Africa, Swaziland and Namibia. One of the nicest memories I will have of Swaziland was the many, many groups of school children we passed. They were in their uniforms and when they saw it was foreigners in the car, they would wave, smile these beautiful smiles and wave and say hello! The area we traveled through was mountainous and I am happy to say that Naxdi was doing the driving at that time. She is originally from Mexico City and so this terrain does not slow her down. Of course trying to get around the logging an sugarcane trucks did slow us down but what a good driver!
Had stopped at a Spar grocery and bought some supplies including chorizo, tortillas, and beans. I guess we were needing some comfort food from home. Was getting late and we were trying to find the Malolotja Reserve. Just when we were about to give up there it was. Driving at night in Africa is not recommended. Animals wander out on the road and there are people walking all times of the day and night so you really must be vigilant. Got inside the reserve, paid for camping and then they mentioned something about a chalet that was supposed to sleep only two. It was cold that evening and the wind was blowing. Checked out the chalet and decided with some arrranging of the furniture we could accomodate everyone. The landscape as we drove to the chalet made us think for a while that we had suddenly transported ourselves from Africa to Mongolia or Tibet. Got to the chalet as the sun was going down. We had a propane refrigerator, stove, and lanterns and a sink. The toilets were in the camping area which was close by. Moved most of the furniture out of the main room so we could put down our sleeping pads.
Had peppadews and feta with wine while we cooked the chorizo, rice, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, and tortillas. Wonderful meal and it was quite cozy inside the chalet/hut. There were a million stars outside because there was no city lights anywhere! All slept well, but Naxdi did hear some crying sound during the night.
Robert and I got up early and walked around in the camp area. Beautiful, rugged setting. While we were walking startled some kind on cat, possibly a genet. Did not get to take picture. This reserve is nice and the chalet would be a good option for travelers although I would not go out of my way to get here but if going this way quite a novelty.
Ate breakfast, took pictures and went for a hike before heading out. Jerry and Naxdi walked down to view of a waterfall. The path was rough, strenous and didn't seem to be where we wanted to be so Robert and I went back and hiked down the road. Later Robert hiked to the top of the hillside. Then we were on our way. The two major cities we passed through were quite busy and a bit confusing. There was a great deal of construction going on and we would have to leave the main road and travel on dirt roads with sugarcane trucks, smoke from fields etc. Got to the border and made a mistake. We managed to drive straight through from Swaziland to South Africa without clearing customs. We found out our mistake when we talked to guard. She said we had to go back to Swaziland and clear customs, then South Africa customs and then we could carry on.
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