Living and working in New Zealand has been a great cultural experience - but not in the way that Asia was so shockingly different from our own standard of living, language, and customs. The contrasts between the Canadian and Kiwi ways of life are much more subtle, yet, I’m always aware that I’m a long way from home, both physically, and culturally. Although both nations are British Commonwealth states, the New Zealanders are much more connected to the ways of the Motherland. We have baseball and real coffee (mmm…Tim Horton’s), they have cricket, and instant coffee, or more often tea. In fact “tea”, is not just a drink, but rather a reference to a meal or break; tea is dinner, morning tea is a break before lunch, and afternoon tea is a p.m. break. To confuse matters, many New Zealanders refer to the actual cup of tea (or any other hot beverage), as a cuppa. For fast food, the average Kiwi is likely to grab a meat pie, or fish and chips, over the North American hamburger, or pizza.
There are many things that stand out as being uniquely Kiwi. Other than their distinctive accent (don’t tell them they sound Australian!), the NZ language is riddled with countless slang. Although I’m sure they’ve borrowed many of them from the POMS (slang for British – “People of the Motherland”), there are some words or phrases that are unmistakably Kiwi. Getting organized is sorted, rubber boots are gumboots, or gummies, and something that is crowded or overly busy, is said to be chock-a-block. No doubt, a Kiwi driving Toronto’s 401 at rush hour (or anytime), would refer to it being chocka .
Being a jock, I’ve written previously of the difference in sports interests. I don’t think there is a way of explaining the phenomenon that is “New Zealand Rugby”. There is a nationwide fever over the professional leagues, including the infamous All-Blacks. The players are celebrities to all, and their stories, on and off the field seem to be the focus of daily newspapers and television news. In a half-hour telecast of the 6 o’clock news, there is likely to be 15 minutes of news, followed by the remaining quarter hour of sport. Amid the many conflicts around the globe this past week, it was the analysis of the new All-Black lycra-style, body-hugging jerseys that dominated newscasts…I’m not joking! Interestingly, Jeannine has really taking a liking to the rugby, although she claims it is purely an interest in the game, not the tight fitting tops! This weekend, we’ll be live for the All Blacks – France test, so it’s safe to say that we’ve become “full-on” supporters of the rugby.
As a mecca for outdoor activities, even our beautiful Canada would be hard pressed to offer the variety and accessibility of conservation land for camping, hiking, and paddling. If you’ve been reading these journals before, you already know that we’ve spent lots of time in the mountains during our time here. While working, we’ve maximized our weekends, and time off to visit the many gems of the South Island. On Easter weekend we completed the incredible Routeburn Track, an alpine crossing over the Main Divide of the country that ends close to Milford Sound, one of the most beautiful places in the country. We spent our Easter Sunday cruising through the majestic fiords of the Sound, overnighting in a quiet bay. The next weekend, good old Stryder (our car), crossed the Alps in a more northerly location, as we headed to the wet and wild West Coast, a rough, lush coastline with minimal settlement. Other hiking trips to Arthur’s Pass National Park, and the Marlborough Sounds have given us the opportunity to experience the diversity of the country on some challenging treks through the rugged mountains, and along the coast. One especially memorable trip was “in our backyard”. On a whim, we decided to trek up to the Mt. Somer’s Hut, a cabin, about a 4 hour hike from the car. It was a crisp, fall night, so after claiming our bunks, we warmed up the nearby “backcountry steam bath”, a tiny shed, with a unique wood-burning sauna. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday night. Mind you, an annoying group from a tramping club, had populated the remaining bunks upon return to the cabin, so our visions of a quiet evening in the mountains were shattered!
So, as winter sets in to the Southern Hemisphere, Jeannine and I wind down our New Zealand experience. Although a “soft” winter so far means we’ve yet to get out for a good day of skiing, we’ll be leaving with no regrets about our time “down under”. In terms of our year long trip, it’s been the country we’ve spent the most time in, and with which we’ll have the greatest attachment. I’m sure that after leaving, we’ll miss the nearby mountains, and the uncrowded, open roads of New Zealand (although we won’t miss the incessant tailgating of so many Kiwi drivers). We’ll surely have the craving for NZ sweets like afghan cookies, Hokey Pokey ice cream, L & P, and Peanut Slabs. It’s easy to get attached to the easy going lifestyle, and the relatively uncomplicated way of life. As a pseudo-Kiwi, life here has been simple and comfortable, but it’s not home.
Our bags are being packed for the final stretch of a great tour. I’ll try to get on to a computer in Fiji in a couple weeks time, when we have a mini-holiday in the South Pacific before the long flight to T.O. We really are looking forward to making the trip home and catching up with everybody. I know it’s midsummer, but a nice hot, cup of Tim Horton’s coffee will be really nice…not to mention the fact that we’ll be terribly jet-lagged and in desperate need of a caffeine fix. See ya soon mates!
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