Greetings from Mumbai. We could not update our journal because there is no internet access in Matheran where we have been for the past week. But first we will update our Benaulim stay. The frog/snake which is actually a toad we believe moved in with us and showed up every evening. We have no idea how he gets in and out. Ms Fraidycat (Ms. becasue Mrs. would mean there is a Mr. Fraidycat and I am not Fraidycat even though I used a bucket to initially approach what we thought might be a snake) took to talking to the toad and we had to leave the bathroom door ajar so the toad could get in and out. He? went into the bathroom for a drink of water. Also, we had to slide our feet when we walked to the bathroom during the night so we would not step on him. By the way I love cats so it stands to reason that I love a Fraidycat.
While sitting in the beach shack that we hung out at we suggested to the owner that he bring in some new entertainment. We thought that Classical music and dance would be interesting as no one else on the beach had that. He wondered if people would come and we assured him that we thought they would and it was worth a try. The next week he booked a classical music and dance group. Sitar, tabla(drum) and harmonium(accordionlike) and had about 70 people turn out. Resounding success. During the performance some very fancy drinks were being carried out and Barbara said that that's where he'll make the money. Turns out the fancy drinks were for us and the two friends we were sitting with. It was his way of thanking us for the suggestion. He continued the group once each week with continuing success even though the number of people on the beach was dwindling.
From Beach to Hill Station. Regretfully we left Benaulim on an overnight train for Mumbai. Straightforward trip. We arrived Mumbai around 6 AM and checked our big backpacks at the left luggage and took a train to catch the toy train to Matheran carrying only our daypacks. We could not get on the toy train because it was fully booked and took a shared taxi instead. Took 20 minutes instead of 2 hours. The road is more direct because the tracks were layed to avoid tunneling and takes a very meandering route. The car ride was scary because of the hairpin turns and constant warning signes that said "Steep drop on right" which it was. We however did take the toy train down on our way back to Mumbai.
Matheran has one of the lowest elevations of the hill stations so it is cool in the mornings and evening and hot during the day. However, it does not get near the 40C of Mumbai or Goa. It is a lovely place of no pollution as there are no motorized vehicles allowed. Only horses and handcarts (handpulled rickshaws). On our first day there we were approached by a man and I thought he said "do you want a hotdog?" and I said where. But he actually said "handcart" not "hotdog". So now I have a craving for hotdogs when up until then I didn't once think of a hotdog.
We stayed at Lord's Central Hotel. A lovely old (124 yrs) structure that faces the valley with a spectacular view from the pool. It included all our meals. One was better than the other. Lunch and dinner was always a 4 course meal. The meals were Indian often a Parses style with British puddings and custards for dessert. Our waiter was the spitting image of Manuel on Fawlty Towers. Manuel aka Ashok was a charming and very attentive waiter but with all of Manuel's mannerisms.
Each day we spent 2-3 hours walking in the morning to various lookout points. The afternoon was at the pool. Evening stroll around town and cards at night and then early to bed so Barbara could get up early and do her Yoga before breakfast. An absolutely wonderful stay. While doing Yoga or sitting out reading Barbara would periodically burst into the room complaining that a monkey was walking towards her so I had to sit out to fend of the monkeys which during the early morning or evening were omnipresent. Also, during our walks many monkeys were on the trail. If a monkey would approach us Barbara would get behind me and I would swing my waterbottle (which was in a carrier) yelling "heeya, heeya". Although I sounded like a muleskinner it proved to be effective and once again the damsel was safe in the forest.
The town itself has a mainstreet with dozens and dozens of horse standing around. Resembled what the old west must have looked like. We thought we would go riding but it turns out that the horses really only move people from one place to another. They are walked by 12 year olds (and up) holding the bridle. We decided against moving about by horse and walked everywhere we went. My hip replacement was as good as a new hip. No pain and I was able to walk for hours along the dusty trails. Matheran trails and streets are made up of a red clay colored earth that at this time of year is quite dusty. Our feet look like they have been dyed with henna from walking and hiking in sandals. On the weekend the town got very busy as Mumbaikers would come for a couple of days. The town would then be very busy with people, goats, dogs, cats, cows, pack and riding horses, and monkeys. On Monday most of the people were gone.
The walks were interesting as they were all on trails in the forest. This made the trail quite cool. Along the trail were many houses that were abandoned by the British when they left. The forest is reclaiming the land as it has become very overgrown. At each lookout point there are games and drinks. The games are the old carnival games like ring toss etc. where you can win a prize. They are all handmade, somewhat crude and manned (boyed?) by 12 and 13 year olds.
We then took the toy train to Neral and caught a commuter train to Mumbai where we picked up our backpacks and took a taxi to our hotel. Mumbai as always is lots of fun; good shopping and good food. We went out to a market called Crawford Market and were the only Westerners there. The market itself was nothing special as we have seen many market like that. The surrounding area where we spent most of the afternoon was more interesting with shops and street stalls of every kind. We joined the crowd for a Pav Bhaji lunch. It is a couple of bread rolls and a bean curry served with raw onions. Again the only Westerners in the place.
So that's it for this trip. We have already planned our next Asian trip. We hope to visit Indonesia for a month then fly to Chennai and tour Orissa and then to Benaulim. But as you all know, our plans are subject to change.
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