March 8, 2007
We finally made the big step and left Isla Boca Brava. Mitch of the sailboat offered to take us to David and unbelieveable as it may seem we were able to put all of Al and Wendy and Robert and Laura's stuff in the Saab and fit comfortably!!!!
We went from Pacific Islands to Carribean Islands, Isla Boca Brava to Bocas del Torro province islands Isla Colon and Isla Bastimentos, also known to international backpackers and surfers as simply "Bocas." This is one of the top destinations in Panama, increasingly where more people are coming to as the only destination. Many fly in to Panama (city) Tocumen, taxi accross town to the domestic airport and fly. We took the bus from David.....
Having been to so many fabulous islands before, we were not overwhelmed by the Bocas experience, but did enjoy learning about Bocas and meeting interesting people and seeing new plants, birds and animals...
Made it to David in time to hop aboard a bus to Changuinola where we get off at Almirante and catch a water taxi to Bocas del Toro. The bus was airconditioned and not crowded at all. As we went along and picked up passengers they would not sit in the back with the "big people" unless there was no other choice. The ride takes you up over the Continental Divide past the Fortuna Dam and is quite lovely. You see a lot of the houses that are on stilts and a great deal of nice country side. We did come upon a construction project where there were actually US soldiers there. We found out later this was a diplomatic mission to help build a health care facility. There are a lot of sharp curves but our driver was another one of the good ones!
Stopped around lunch and Robert got off and got us a plate of carne guisado and fried fish. Glad we did because we still had a ways to go. Got to Almirante and once again we welcomed into the worled of touts. They wanted to get us a taxi to the water taxi place, carry oubags, etc. Since we were with Wendy and Al at this time, Wendy negotiated a ride to the water taxi for $1 a person and then the water taxi rid was $3.00. Got everything loaded into the water taxi, waved goodbye to the boys asking for tips and were on our way. As you leave Almirante you pass through an area that is thick with mangroves. The weather was overcast and we actually had some rain as we went across. The ride took about 25 minutes and was not as rough as I had feared. There is an alternate route to Bocas del Toro from Changuinola which actually takes you through the banana plantation waterway which is quite scenic according to the guidebook and a guy we talked to at the Hostel Heike.
Got to Bocas town-- As you arrive you see many buildings on stilts built over the water and it is quite picturesque. Evidently this area has been discovered by investors and there are not really any bargains to be found. Wendy and Al were meeting a friend, wanted to stay in a different place than ourselves so we were back on our own again.
Got to the Hostel Heike and were greeted warmly by Laura, a 20 something girl whose parents live in Sugarland, Texas, near Laura's sister and my cousin, and found a room that we will share with two other people since we rent space for two. Rested awhile and then to the store to get supplies. After dinner we went and sat out on the terrace that overlooks the main street and the park. Needless to say, it was a great place to sit and people watch. We met our roommate Ross who is from Canada was here surfing and taking diving lessons. We also met two guys from Lithuania. Robert recognized they were speaking a Baltic language and started talking to them. One of them has led a very interesting life traveling to many places and is a musician who has produced a CD about the troubles in Africa. He gave us a copy of it. The next day he and the other guy had an impromptu music jam. Hokshila played a guitar that is only the outline of the guitar and the string area. Linas played the violin and it was a truly magical experience.
Later that first evening we met our other roommate Vincent from Rotterdam. He is quite interesting and we had some very good conversations with him. He left the next day and we got another interesting roommate, Pao from South Korea.
The second day we walked around the town and enjoyed the scenery. That night at Mondo Taitu was "Revenge of the Nerds" party night. After dinner we headed on down there. Some of the people had done a real good job of dressing in proper nerd costumes. We decided we were nerdy enough! Met some interesting people including a real estate developer, two guys that are river guides in US and assorted others. We went back to Mondo Taito the next evening also and visited with some other interesting people. Amazing to me, this is Spring Break in the US and there are a number of college kids down here for the week. There was a group from Emory University that were interesting to visit with. Can 't tell how much they will remember since they did have a drink that was called the "Flaming Amnesia"! Pretty much closed the place down both nights.
On one day we walked about 3 miles from the hostel toward Drago Beach. It was interesting to see the old fire engine complete with the hard rubber tires. Stopped and talked to man that is building the sales office for a condo project that is coming to that part of the island. We found a nece beach where we sat and enjoyed ourselves for awhile and then caught the bus back to the hostel.
We had rain on a couple of the days we were there but mainly during the night and short rain duirng the day except for the last day we were on Isla Colon (Bocas Town). We used our old Kasane trick and went to the Internet cafe during the heat of the day. Decided to eat out because the water was off. Ate at nice place over the water. Our waiter was from Suriname and quite interesting. He had been living in Bocas town for some time and was on the Council there. There had been a parada/protest earlier that day and we asked him about it. They were marching asking for donations, protesting the fact that none of their fire engines work. This is in a town that is mainly wood so quite a problem! He is also working with the schools to do clean up projects in their town.
Decided the next morning to move on over to Isla Bastimentos which is a short ten minute water taxi ride away. Went to Tio Tom's and they had a room available. As with Bocas town, it is picturesque as you arrive with the buildings on stilts over the water. Tio Tom's has a palapa right over the water with two hammocks which both Robert and I enjoyed. Unfortunately we discovered that the water was off in the rooms. Ina one of the owners had explained to us when there is water you use the shower; otherwise you take a romantic shower pouring a jug of water over each other (more on water issue at end of this sectionl.)
While I was napping and reading in the hammock, Robert met Steve who is renting a house on the island along with his wife. He is starting a business setting up desalination systems to be used in homes or hotels. Sounds what the people of this area need. Before he did this he was a sailboat captain mainly in the Caribbean but did also deliver boats back and forth across the Atlantic!
That evening we got to meet the rest of the group staying at Tio Toms. Gary and Brigi from Germany that we had met on Isla Boca Brava, Ryan and Kristen from Oregon, Maria and Damon from Germany and a couple from Boquete that were originally from Switzerland and Steve's wife Adrienne. The couple from Oregon and Germany had been on a trip with Tom to visit some caves where you evidently wade up to your neck and through a mangrove swamp. They had pictures complete with the various bats they had seen in the cave. The trip through the mangroves looked just like the jungle pictures you always imagine. Later that evening Joe from the island came and played the guitar for us. He ended his reggae music performance by asking" Which is the best nation?" Answers included Germany, Switzerland, Panama. He said no, the best nation was a donation!" The hat was then passed..... Adrienne accompanied him on the comb with a piece of wax paper. It was a fun evening. Joe is evidently part of a local group called the Bastimentos Boys.
The next morning the water was on. Showered and ate breakfast and then went with Adrienne to see the sloth that was in a tree by the cemetery. It was there along with it's baby. On the way back Adrienne invited us to their house to see the red frogs they have all over the place. Invited us in to see the place they are renting for a very good price and long story short we decided to rent a room from them. They have water storage tanks on the property and so showers etc. if conservative are not a problem.
We ate dinner that night at Tio Tom's and another couple we had met from Boca Brava were there. He is a butterfly-insect person. It was another enjoyable evening with lots of fun conversation.
That afternoon before we went there, we went on hike with Adrienne up to the top of the hill above town. It is a very nice hike taking you up into the forests where the Montezuma Oropendula (bird) is flying all over the place. We also saw parrots and some other nice birds. At the top is a place that sells organic products. The woman is from Scotland, her husband from Peru. When we arrived it was her parents there watching their VERY active young grandson. Robert said to the man--I came up here to get some of the chocolate type stuff to put on haggis." Lo and behold, the man pulls out a can of haggis! Both Adrienne and I bought some of the cacao bean that is grown on the islands. Evidently this is a native crop, organically grown and using age old methods and local receipes roast the cacao bean. You then shave off what you want, add sugar and milk to taste. She warned that it has a bittersweet taste otherwise.
On the way down the trail we saw a great number of garden spiders of many different varieties. We also came across a web that was filled with at least 50 baby spiders pulsating in the web. Aalso on the way down we saw grooved billed ani^. We have been wanting to see these and discovered if you are not looking at the bill you can mistake them for a grackle! We also saw a scarlet rumped or scarlet backed tanager. Its coloration is a brillant scarlet on the back and black wings and back.
The next day Steve and Adrienne went to Bocas town to see if they could get some clothes washed and other errands done. Before they left we were watching a bird that was working the flowers in their front yard and then would fly up into the palm trees. We were able to get a picture and determine we were looking at a bananaquit. This is a beautiful bird that looks something like a minature kiskadee in coloration. Robert fixed chicken and lentil curry. We took a hike along the beach line and found another trail. There was a rasta looking guy walking along it and told us it went to a organic place. The trail was very lush and beautiful. Once again we were entertained by the Montezuma Orependula. Got back into town where there was a soccer game in full swing at the edge of town. Back to Steve and Adrienne's where we shared the curry and had a great evening visiting dreams, plans and whatever else. Steve then got out his guitar and played a while for us.
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