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TJ: Crossing The River

1999-12-20, Hampi, India

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On our return from the temple, the restaurant by the stream we had passed earlier gained our custom. It had simple mats on the floor and no prices on the menu, but served delicious thali and it was definitely my kind of place. At first I wondered how the owner of the shop made her money because we seemed to be the only ones around, but by the end of our meal the place was filling up with regulars. After a long rest and a good meal, we bid farewell to our host and started to make our way back to the other side of the river, stopping in the shade of a rock to gather our thoughts. There were two children playing in the distance that soon managed to spot us and started heading our way. When I was aware that the children were coming I convinced Kim we should run away, I couldn’t face the prospect of two rowdy children shouting the usual phrases “skoolpen, English, English, twenty rupees” for the next twenty minutes, so running away seemed like a plausible option.

After a hasty retreat we discovered a ruined bridge that had been constructed from huge pillars of stone, many of which had fallen across the river making the rivers path dwindle into a stream, or so we thought. We got stuck trying to cross further downstream from the collapsed bridge so we assumed that we would be able to cross over on the bridge itself. This wasn't the most appealing option because by now the two children we were trying to avoid were playing in that exact place. As we clambered of the fallen pillars and worked our way closer to the two playing children I prepared myself for a torrent of questions, but we passed the children without them saying a word, and hardly acknowledging our existence.

The bridge hadn’t blocked off the water, it had merely shifted it to the next lowest gravitational point and was now flowing strong as an ox in it's new happy home. Climbing along the fallen pillars had taken us across the dried up riverbed and from there we waded through shallow waters to bring us to the tiny island we were now standing on. I walked up and down our little island, and tried to figure out a way across. There were rocks laying in stepping stone like fashion that could take us about two thirds of the way out. The first stepping stone was over jumping distance away from the bank we were on, it was protected by a thorny bush and a layer of roots that were neither easy enough to remove, nor strong enough to use as a platform. After some searching Kim found a branch that would act as a bridge for our descent onto the first stone. Although I am a fairly strong swimmer I don’t have much experience with rivers and the current between the first stone we were now safely standing on, and the second we were trying to get to, was very deceptive. I tried several times to wade across through the rushing water, but each time I was nearly swept away by the current, and after several hopeless attempts I realised I had failed. I wasn’t giving up just yet, and after we clambered back up onto the bank I went to look for a new place to cross. When I found the new perfect place that would ensure us safe passage across to the other bank, I tried again.

The new crossing point was in full view of all the Indian tourists who were visiting the Vitthala temple on the opposite riverbank, and as I made my attempts to cross, my audience started to gather. When I progressed they cheered, and when the river beat me back they jeered and laughed which made it imperative that I cross the river - I would show them what I was made of! Apparently not much and after getting beaten back by the flowing water for the last time I gave up - again. All the while I fought with the river a wicker basket boatman was safely ferrying people back and forth. With my head held low I attracted his attention and we arranged to meet on the tiny cow toilet of an island next to ours. The boat ride was short, and the price was small, but the reason we were trying to swim across in the first place was to balance out the extortionate price we had initially paid. I almost slipped over as I was trying to climb out of the boat right in front of my audience, which didn’t help my mood any, and now feeling extremely grumpy I was glad to get away and start the trail back to town.

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Picture of Me on a bridge on Havelock Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The Crocodile Sanctuary. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Learning To Scuba Dive. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Christmas Eve 1999. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ross Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Hotel Lobby. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ross Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Kim's new dress. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Neil Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Islands, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Autorickshaw shots. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of More autorickshaw shots. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ross Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Chennai Streets. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Havelock Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Shopping Shopping!. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of On our way to The Andamans (with the Swedes). Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andaman Sea, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Rooftop Party. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Central Lodge (Port Blair) New Years Eve - Good Times!. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of New Years Eve - Beach Party!. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of New Years Eve - Beach Party!. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ruins. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Neil Island - Our Camp. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ganesha - The Elephant God. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Neil Island Camp - Cooking. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Inside Some Ruins. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of By Sunset Point - Neil Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Inside a flooded temple. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of By Sunset Point - Neil Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Balcony of The Rahul Hotel. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Traversing the river in a wicker basket. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Looking out of a temple. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of A wicker boatsman. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Damn these rocks are big. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Beach Hut Benaulim Beach. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Happy to see us. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hospet, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Anjuana Market. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Engrossed in a book riding the great Indian railway. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Arrived in Goa, pale as a ghost!. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Cool Student chicks. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Engraving. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Elephant's In Town. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The Best Smoothies Inside. Taken 1999-12-20 in Kochin, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of View Over Hampi. Taken 1999-12-20 in hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Rooftop Sessions. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Musical Statues. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Street Life. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Chariot Statue. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Here Comes Ele - phant. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Reflections. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Reflections. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Indian Family. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The views were stunning. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Dragon in the sand at sunset (Neil Island). Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Rooftop Sessions. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Sand Dragon. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Our camp posse on Neil Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of My Diving Licence Photo. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of I think it's a war dance - run!. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Looking Back On A Track.... Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Lookin Out over the beach at Sunset. Taken 1999-12-20 in Gokana, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Dance Festival. Taken 1999-12-20 in Mamallapuram, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Hilltop Sunset. Taken 1999-12-20 in Gokana, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The Music & Dance Festival. Taken 1999-12-20 in Mamallapuram, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of More Temples. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Beach Guitar - Neil Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The Temple up loads of stairs and really really far away. Taken 1999-12-20 in Hampi, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The strange talking ceremony. Taken 1999-12-20 in Mamallapuram, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Walking Tall. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of A Newsagents. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Dancing Girl. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Gandhi. Taken 1999-12-20 in Tha Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The Red Land. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Sunset In Port Blair. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Through The Trees. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Chands Sweet Stall - Neil Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Guarding Our hut on Havelock Island. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Eating on our way home. Taken 1999-12-20 in Kochin, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Camping on Havelock Island - Paradise!. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Rooftop Antics. Taken 1999-12-20 in Chennai, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Camping with the Swedes on Havelock. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Picture with a view. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Fishing Nets. Taken 1999-12-20 in Kochin, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Time to Reflect. Taken 1999-12-20 in Goa, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Fisherman. Taken 1999-12-20 in Kochin, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Cleaning the camp on Neil Island (I only weighed 9.5 stone at this point and I'm 6ft 4!). Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ross Island Ruins. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ross Island Ruins. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of The Photographer being photographed. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of My first week diving. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Climbing trees. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Ross Island Ruins. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of An overgrown house - and me!. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.
Picture of Sitting and chilling. Taken 1999-12-20 in The Andamans, India by traveler Tjtunes.

Next entry: TJ: Death From A Toolmaker

 
 

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