Teodesa rapped at the door at 6.30am sharp. Reluctant to leave the warmth of our bed, we struggled to get to the kitchen for breakfast. However, upon ducking into the small hut, we were delighted with fresh pancakes and sugar to start the day.
We staggered down the same steep rocky path down to the dock along with Teodesa, 100m ahead of us, whose sturdy legs always outran us, and prepared to board our little boat again. We hugged and waved goodbye to Teodesa and continued in the bright morning sun for Isla Taquille, a few kilometers away.
As we approached, we realized it was another hour trek up the hills which dominated most of the island. On the way up, we past little houses scattered on the hillside as well as small herds of sheep, cows and donkeys. Little children hid behind rocks to jump out and ambush us with crafts to sell in their soiled hands.
“Buy! Buy! Look! Buy!” a bunch of colourful woven bracelets in their outstretched hands.
“Buy lady! Buy!” they screeched.
“Buy…please buy missus…” they whined.
Drums and ceremonial music could be heard as we made our way to the main square. A group of men and women dressed in colourful costumes danced in a circle. It was the 4th day of a local Taquille fiesta and they celebrated with dance, music and the exchange of coca leaves (Yay! More coca leaves!).
Surrounding the square are souvenir stalls, which displayed a myriad of crafts at fixed prices. Bargaining was not a culture accepted on this island. The island operates as a co-operative and share many communist-type values. Everyone on the island works and earns their fair share. They abide by the 3 rules that govern everyone on the island:
1) Do not steal;
2) Do not lie; and
3) Do not be lazy
And they are highly praised for their values, so much so that they proudly publicise how there are no police on the island as there is no crime. A gem in South America, the island also boasts a population retention rate of over 90%!
All things equal, we sat for lunch in one of the 22 restaurants all serving the same meals for the same price, and received a portion of soup, grilled trout and omelette, and coffee afterwards (for a not so cheap 22 soles…).
The ride back to Puno took over 3 hours and our heads lulled in the heat and exhaust smell that engulfed the cabin. Passing the Uros Islands on the return trip, we noticed it was quiet…
“Hey, there’s hardly anyone on the islands. Where have they all gone? Aren’t they supposedly to be living on them?”
“Hmm…who knows? There are no tourists in sight either. They might all having a sleep…or in Puno?”
“Yeah, perhaps. Does make one wonder though…”
Overjoyed to escape the boat for fresh air, we got off at Puno and wandered around the dusty and dirty streets. Most of the streets were in some stages of construction (as with much of the structures in South America we have witnessed), and many buildings stodd half-built; roofless, windowless and doorless. The entire town looked as if it has been bombed-out.
After a shower (finally) in the evening, we met up with Rachel and Lauriane (2 friendly girls we met on our island trip) for dinner at the same Chicken & Chaufa restaurant. Coffee, tea and sweets followed quickly at a cozy café pumpin 90s techno music, as we recounted our worldly journeys.
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