Lazy Sunday

2002-01-13, Takoradi, Ghana

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January 13, 2002—

Breakfast is at 7:00, but Doug is awake again at 5:30, before the alarm. The water runs out (is depleted) as he shaves the last whisker, but the grounds crew at St. Kizito’s Catechetical Institute and Retreat Centre will pump more into the tank just up the hill. Breakfast is thick white bread with jam, plus coffee (instant of course) as per the previous night’s orders.

The small group of Minnesotans arrives at Star of the Sea Cathedral early for Mass. The 6:30 Fante Mass is still going strong at 8:20 and is packed. The English Mass begins at 8:30 with the church 60% filled. It seems less lively & spirited than in 2000, but Harold later says it was the most inspiring worship he has experienced... EVER. Not a lot of dancing, but excellent choir and music. Onyameba participates, has a great singing voice, but does not go for communion. He knows the Mass but considers himself a Pentecostal.

After church the boxes which traveled safely in the cargo holds of two planes from Minnesota are unpacked in Fr. Francis’ office, but he is not there. He has made an unannounced journey to Asankrangwa to visit family. Hopes are prevalent that all is well.

Upon returning to St. Kizito’s, the search for a wonderful hide-away where Doug dined with Fr. Francis in June of 2000 called “Victoria’s Beach,” is begun. First, instructions are given the Americans on how to ask for directions in Ghana: One, always ask men who tuck their shirts in—they have probably been to school more than those who don’t and two, ask several men to determine a pattern. Victoria’s is found—she does indeed serve lunch even when Fr. Francis is not along. While marveling at her great memory, Doug and the whole party are welcomed with European cheek kisses.

The Gulf of Guinea has a beautiful beach at Victoria’s and shell harvesting is great—so are the salad, yams, rice with tomato sauce and guinea hens in the open-sided dining area. Star Beer is consumed in vast quantities—Harold has three in a row and comments he has exceeded his yearly quota of beer in one afternoon! Jo & Doug walk the beach and a wave splashes Doug’s digital camera, which is carelessly hanging off his ocean-side wrist. Perhaps it will dry out. Jo’s camera quits also and a new battery does not help.

Onyameba and Amos return to town checking on Ralph and Ellen’s expected arrival from Ada. The two parties enter the Takoradi bus terminal about the same time and join the others for lunch. Stories are traded about the activities of the last three days. Upon leaving, Victoria kisses everyone good-bye, offering complimentary wine and special prices for lunch because of the group’s affiliation with Fr. Francis. Fr. Francis has a good friend!

After returning to St. Kizito’s for rest and clean up, more lessons for the Americans are begun. This time it is how to balance pails on top of heads. It is done with a metal bucket about ¼ full of water placed on a coil of cloth to make a pad for the head. Jo is the only one with limited success—perhaps because she is a woman! It results in lots of pre-dinner fun and laughter and some wet clothes.

Dinner once again is delicious at St. Kizito’s: Shrimp, sausages, plantains, rice and coleslaw round out the menu. After eating, Ralph, Ellen, Amos, Onyameba and Doug go searching for ways to call home. (It is Doug’s mother’s 90th birthday). The telecommunications offices are all closed early on a Sunday night in Takoradi. Ghana Tel-Com cards are purchased to access the AT&T lines to America with 0191. The phone rings, Doug hears his mother answer, but she cannot hear him—there is a problem or mismatch in the connection. Amos suggests dialing direct, using the phone card and dialing 001 plus the number without pause. It works! The whole party calls home, standing at well-lighted, open air phones along the highway between Takoradi and points east. After adding 37.5 gallons of gas to the van at $1.26/gallon U.S. (about the same price as back home), the group returns to St. Kizito’s by 11:00 p.m.

Day’s reflections: Onyameba is really doing well with everyone. He is charming, as one would expect a “rented” Ghanaian to be, but he also looks out for everyone in the group, keeping smiles on all faces. He is especially attentive to Doug, which is welcomed. Doug supposes it is because he is the contact person and responsible for getting this tour to Africa. However, it is learned later when the two know each other better, that Onyameba singles Doug out because he is traveling alone. It is something Doug never thought about, but is a basic principle at “tour guide school” and is much appreciated. On the way home from Victoria’s the group stopped for many pictures, everyone feeling like they were with a bunch of kids on vacation. Onyameba’s genuine warmth is infectious and even carries over to the staff at every location visited. His wife, Ewuraesi, calls a lot on the cell phone—they miss each other a lot and there is much to share as she is back in Accra with Onyameba’s parents, working full time and seven months pregnant. But O. is so proud to be doing this tour and it shows in all his phone conversations with the folks at home. He and Amos received baby quilts and knitted caps brought by Jo from the “Quilters” at St. Mary’s Church in Willmar. Both guys are very appreciative, and maybe a little bit whelmed.