Our Rajasthan highlights (you'll notice Mandawa and Bikaner aren't included...) We have learned 2 things on our way - the cow and the horn are king in India. We have even seen a woman kiss and bless a cow and we have felt like asking for a blessing ourselves after some of the overtaking on these roads...
Jaisalmer really is a desert palace that doesn't disappoint. Its a fairytale castle on top of a hill - very beautiful (Jules - just like the Blue Sword). Its a very lived in fort so is full of hotels, shops and houses. Jaisalmer probably catches exactly what India is like - the beauty and the mess. Jaisalmer is also where we had our camel safari adventure. We travelled by jeep off into a remote village to pick up our camels. We rode to the sand dunes and, because its out of season, there were only 4 of us there. So it was very quiet and peaceful as we watched the sunset.
Jodhpur was a complete contrast. The fort was solid and pristine (Jaisalmer by contrast looks as if it would fall over if you pushed it). Where Jaisalmer is still a working fort, Jodhpur has been turned into a museum. There are fantastic views from the fort over the town where many of the houses are painted blue. Despite the beauty of the fort you still have people living in terrible conditions when you go into the town, with houses opening out onto open sewers. The smells of India are as memorable as the sights.
Our next stop was Udaipur which is definitely our favourite place in Rajasthan and the most beautiful. It's the place where Octopussy was filmed and is the home of the Lake Palace hotel which, when the monsoon has been good, is set in the middle of the lake. We spent our time wandering through the city, haggling for souvenirs and enrolling on a cookery course which was absolutely fantastic. We spent 4 hours being taught how to make the basic sauces and how to rustle up a korma sauce, biriyani rice, roti and naans, sag aloo.... It was one of the most fun things we've done and curry will be on the menu when we come back!
Pushkar was again a town on a lake, but much more touristy. Watching the sunset (its a bit of a theme with India) on the lake was nice but the town felt a little bit fake. The lassis were good though.
Finally we have arrived in our last stop, Jaipur. Its the capital of Rajasthan and feels as busy as Delhi. We visited the Amber Palace and yesterday we walked though the old city, had the best haggle so far, saw a naked man walking the streets (twice) and were chased by children. As we said, India is never dull!!!!
(editors note: chased by children! we were lynched! The story goes that we were dropped off in the middle of the bazaar by yet another tuk-tuk driver with a passion for flogging us a carpet. Not quite knowing our way out we opted to take a 'short cut' down a side street (for 'we' read Jay). It all started off quite well but after five minutes walking, the street became an alley and we were beginning to get a few more funny looks than usual. Shops turned into the locals homes and then as we turned a corner all these 3-8 year old kids came streaming out of knowhere chanting 'hello' clapping and shouting. There where about 20 of them out to get us. Realising this was no longer on the tourist trail we quickly turned around only for them to continue following us much to amusement of all the locals who had come out to see what all the fuss was about. We felt like the Pied Piper (they were touching Jay's arms and my bum!) We were only saved by an 80 year old woman who, swift as you like, took off her shoe and absolutly belted any kid within range. Moral of the story - don't go down side streets in Indian Towns (or watch Jay's map reading).
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