Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital, sprawls at the foot of the mountains known as the Small Carpathians (Male Karpaty). This charming city sprawls across both banks of the Danube (Europe’s second largest river) and its proximity to the borders of neighbouring Hungary in the south and Austria in the west make for a handy travelling base to nearby Vienna and Budapest.
As with many great European cities, Bratislava’s castle is the dominating feature, standing high above its Old Town and overlooking a strategic body of water (the Danube). The oldest traces of human activity on the castle site date back to 4000 BC, with the oldest known building a stone church dating from the end of the 9th century. After 1542, Bratislava became the capital city of the Kingdom of Hungary and meetings of its parliament were held here. The castle was reconstructed and adapted regularly, to meet evolving and contemporary needs. A major reconstruction during Empress Maria Theresa’s reign around 1741, when the exteriors and interiors of the entire area were renovated. But after her death, the palace lost importance and the Hungarian kingdom’s centre moved to a newly rebuilt royal castle in Buda (now Budapest). Crown jewels and other objects were moved from Bratislava to Vienna or Buda. Bratislava Castle’s rooms were then rebuilt and used as a seminary and for schools. Soldiers moved in during the late 1700's and carelessly caused a fire here in 1811.
The castle remained in ruins until reconstruction and renovation began again during the 1950’s. Now beautifully restored, it houses magnificent halls and museum collections (including the Slovak National Museum). Excellent exhibitions include the antiques and relics of famed Czech collector Rudolf Just (1895-1972); antique furniture, clocks and armoury; and ancient Slovak relics dating back to 5000 BC. A long set of steps leads to the top of the Crown Tower for even loftier views over Bratislava, although sealed glass windows restrict photography.
The castle and grounds command excellent views over the Old Town and Danube. Unfortunately, the full ugliness of the New Town is also revealed; a sprawling monument to drab Communist architecture and high-density-living on the Danube’s opposing bank.
For art lovers, a fascinating sculpture park has been created in the castle grounds. These sculptures vary in theme and genre; from a cartoon-like, almost pop art themed fox; to a full-size, shiny silver metal tank cleaved in two depicting an anti-Communist message.
Descent to the Old Town is via a series of stone steps and shaded pathways. Bratislava’s extensive Old Town café/restaurant scene is well positioned, ensuring stress-free refreshment location. With so many choices on offer, it might take some time to choose just one! But, once seated al-fresco at your chosen café, enjoy Slovakian cuisine (examples?) and Staropramen beer while watching the world go by.
After your meal, explore the Old Town’s quaint streets; its glorious fountains, imposing embassies, gorgeous old buildings and stalls hawking colourful Slovak souvenirs. Discover quirky bronze statues; a man’s hands and head emerging from a pavement manhole; “Napoleon” leaning casually over a park bench; a spy peeking a building’s corner through binoculars. The Old Town is also populated by a colourful array of sculptured cows, moulded identically but individualised by varying designs and hues. One cow even “floats” upside down in mid-air, a swatch of strategically draped material camouflaging its supporting column. This sponsored “Cow Parade” project (artists receive an honorarium for participation) has become one of the world’s most successful public art exhibits – literally open for all to enjoy. The project has been expanded to other world cities, well on the way to becoming a global phenomenon. Cow Parade has already featured in Warsaw, Barcelona, Monaco and Chicago and will soon be seen in new locations like Edinburgh, Moscow, Buenos Aires and Boston.
Meander along a wide, tree-shaded riverside path while admiring the Danube, huge cruise vessels and floating hotels. When a certain Mr J Strauss composed his famous ode to this mighty river, it might have been blue – but these days, it’s a fast-flowing, muddy brown. Blue or brown – you’ll still find yourself maddeningly humming Strauss for the rest of the day!
Bratislava is a charmingly refreshing city, relatively small but less crammed with tourists than other European cities like Prague or Paris. Queues are rare and there’s plenty of personal space in which to relax and explore.
Accommodation in Bratislava’s centre can be expensive, as some establishments quote in euro rather than Slovakian crowns. Away from the centre but still within walking distance of the Old Town (albeit up steep hills) are cheaper options – excellent, family run pensions for around 1600 Sk (£23) per double. Pensions are an excellent way to meet locals and be introduced to a great Slovakian passion – folk music.
Air, rail or bus travel to Bratislava is easy from Vienna and Budapest. If travelling by private vehicle in Slovakia, a nalépka (prepaid motorway sticker) is compulsory but cheap and available at border posts. Adhere to posted speed limits and beware sneaky radar traps around borders, villages or schools to avoid on-the-spot fines, an unnecessary blow to the hip pocket in what is generally a cheap country to explore.
So, what are you waiting for? Escape the more crowded cities of Europe and discover a breath of fresh air in Bratislava – Slovakia’s unspoiled, charming and affordable capital.
(Copyright L. Chynoweth-Tidy - July 2005)
|
