Morocco Africa
The boat to Tangier ran on a Moroccan time schedule. The boat scheduled to leave for Africa at 16:00 didn’t board till around 16:30 and did not leave the port till 18:00. Mountains on all sides made the trip seem mystical. When we arrived in Africa the port at Tangier was a mass of hagglers and arguing Arabic men. The taxi drivers fought over us as we were surrounded by ten other taxi drivers telling us “they will get you lost and steal your bags.” Tangier was an Arabic city, but still felt similar to Europe. From the tip of Morocco we hopped a 12 hour train to Marrakech. On the train the conductor woke me and said “you cannot sleep on this train,” I said “okay.” He said “you don’t understand. If you sleep they will steal all you have,” as he pointed at my bag. Surrounding us in the train were all Arabic people. Women in veils with babies tied to their backs and men in traditional dress. My travel companions for this journey were an American, a Canadian, and a kid from Finland. The kid from Finland was very street smart and helped us in many scary situations.
The train arrived in Marrakech and I was not prepared for what I saw. The land around the city was arid with workers using donkeys and camels. Every home was constructed using mud brick. Once in the city I felt furthest away from home I have ever felt. The feeling was almost frightening and I was ready to get back to my new homeland, Europe. A man approached us and led us to our hostel. We dodged blind beggars, motorcycles, hagglers, women whose personalities seemed lost behind their veils, and men who moved so fast you would think their feet were on fire. The man who led us to our accommodation would not leave us after we paid him for his service. Everyone in Marrakech expects a payment even if all they do is point you in the right direction. He was wanting more than we paid for the taxi, which I must admit wasn’t a lot; but all this guy did was walk us about three blocks. After arguing with four men and haggling for a cheaper room we finally stepped out of a world one only thought existed in movies.
After securing our luggage in our rooms we stepped out into the narrow streets that almost seemed dark even though it was midday. Everyone around us wore veils, dresses, hoods, and other head covers. The noises and smells were the strongest I have ever encountered. There were the most intoxicating smells I have ever encountered and the worse smells within the same alley. I came with the mindset that I would view Marrakech from a distance; meaning would stay in the city center and eat packaged food. I knew this would only allow me to see the city as a tourist sees the city. I wanted to see the city as a traveler would see the city. I ventured into this foreign world with full force, eating all the food and seeing all the Arab world has to offer. I ate meats, fruits, and drinks that shocked my senses. The food is cheap and it is everywhere. When I was hungry I ate, when I wasn’t hungry I ate also. We would eat a meal for dinner ad a few hours later we would eat another meal. Crossing the city center you stumble over beggars, snake charmers, dancers, acrobats, and even men selling used teeth.
When the beautiful sunset finally fell behind the red brick walls the traditional Arabian nights begin. The streets were filled with smoke and music. The night came and went as the natives moved rapidly selling food and performing street acts. Late in the night we retired to the rooftop of our dwelling for some relaxation from the chaotic streets below. In the far distance a faint wail echoed through the night. A moment later a wail began to emit from behind me, then another beside me, and another, until wailing was blaring fro all directions. The call to prayer was intimidating, frightening, and peaceful all at the same time. I instantly had chills that ran down my spine and my hairs stood on end. I would compare the call to prayer to listening to elk bugle or coyotes yelping. Every call was different and every call comes from a different location in the town. The calls became deafening as all the wailing joined together to create the most eerie feeling I have ever experienced. The night ended with us having a traditional tea and hookah bedtime ritual. I am so grateful to be able to experience the Arab world and to meet the Arab people.
I mad a few interesting observations on the Muslim people during my stay, but I will have to write about it in another journal because I am running out of time.
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