We left Fort Kochi by train for Goa. A straightforward trip that arrived in Goa at 3 AM. There were prepaid taxis available and we were dropped at our hotel around 3.30 AM with the gates locked. Had to rouse the guard who had to rouse one of the staff so we could get our key. All turned out fine and we were asleep by 4 AM. We then spent a couple of weeks on the beach. The beach is seemingly endless and while we have walked in both directions for about an hour we did not see the end of the beach. It is set up with beach shacks which are temporary structures that have tables and a kitchen of sorts. They also provide beach lounges free if you eat there. After eating at one of the beach shacks more than once they claim you as their own and greet you as soon as you set foot on the beach. We have settled on three favourite shacks and alternate between them much to the chagrin of the various waiters who rely on tips. Also on the beach are a variety of beings who are not tourists. Dogs, cows, bulls, fishermen, beach vendors (fruit, sarongs, jewelry, peanuts). In addition there is a troop of acrobats that come down the beach, set up a tightrope, do a few acts, collect donations and move about 30 feet down the beach (the next beach shack) and do it all again.
We spent the last few days at Hampi, which is an ancient city and was the capital of South India during the 14th to 16th centuries. We took the train which could be know as "Not-the-bullet train". It takes 10 hours to cover 180 miles. It spends more time stopped than it does moving. Hampi is one of the most spectacular ancient cities we have visited. During it's height it was one of the richest cities in the world. Traded here were diamonds, gold, spices and cloth. Reports from travelers at the time say that it was grander and richer than Rome. It was conquered and burned by the Muslim Sultans in the late 16 century. It is surrounded by granite boulders, some precariously balanced (seemingly so). The views from almost anywhere is stunning as Hampi is in a valley surrounded by granite hills and the ruins are visible from any vantage point. While we usually go on our own we went with a guide for part of our tour. This was a good decision as we saw much more than is in the guidebooks. Some of the sites would not be found by following the maps that are available. We walked along narrow footpaths, through banana groves, over boulders to visit caves which had wonderful relief carvings of dieties. Also, we came across a group of about 20 people that appeared to be living in one of the temples. They were cooking, washing, apparently sleeping as bedrolls were visible. When we asked our guide about this he seemed surprised. He explained that it was a wedding party that was preparing the bride for her wedding. He pointed out a completely covered person surrounded by the women of the group. She did peek out and smiled at us. We went to a snake cave (carvings of snakes) and was blessed by the Satu who put a red dot on our forehead. This cost us 10 Rs (25 cents). We then continued our tour down river by carocle (sp.?) which is a round vessel made of reed woven together and covered with fabric and tar. Originally they were covered with skins and date back to the 14th century. Some of the big ones can carry cattle, motorbikes or about 15 people. They are not completely waterproof. This whole area is the "sacred city area" and is dotted with shrines in various states of repair (disrepair). They are still digging out various structures from 5 feet of mud. Women are used to carry away the earth. Many women. Each has a small woklike pan which she carries on her head and can contain about 2 litres of earth. The movement of the women is like a choreographed dance as they move among the ruins to the dumping ground. The highlight of the morning was the 16th century Vitthala Temple Complex which contained a magnificently carved stone chariot, a Mandapan which is an open hall that contains many dozens of pillars, each tuned to a particular tone. They are in sets and were played by trained musicians for the court dancers. Our guide played them but Barbara refused to dance.
During the afternoon we toured the Royal Enclosure by rickshaw. This covers a huge area and is not doable on foot. It contains a huge structure that housed the royal elephants. We saw the remains of a complex aquaduct system leading to huge storage tanks. Some of the buildings were remarkable because they were a combination of Indian and Muslim architecture. The Queen's bath had beautiful archces through which you could view enormous boulders. We finished the day with a sunset view from the top of one of the highest hills in the area.
The town of Hampi now is a very wide main dusty street that contains tea shops, gift shops, a large temple at one end of main street and some very poor families at the other end. The street is about half a mile long. The families sleep outside the house, probably because of the heat. They cook on wood fires. Chickens, goats and water buffalo wander in the street. Off of the main street are narrow alleys that contain the guest houses, more gift shops etc.
We spent a day simply walking around town. We followed the river to a terassed restaurant at the end of a banana grove. They served great thali. Also, it is a time of weddings (full moon) and there was celebrations in the street each night. The bride and groom carried in a lighted chariot, a brass band in red dress uniform played as they made their way to the temple at the end of the street. We loved being there.
Now we are back in Benaulim and it's late morning so we are off to the beach.
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