Mali Stories


Cock with an Attitude

About an hour before the first crack of dawn light, the chorus began singing. It's always one dipshit rooster who starts the band. His call is answered by his equally annoying friend across the village, followed by every other cock with an attitude. The call and response of the cock-a-doodle-doo refrain is then joined by a few plucky jackasses. The ...


The Peanut Dealer

Went back to school today. Paid a visit to the local elementary school in the village of Bengemato (Dogon country). A signpost in front indicates it was built in 2005 with funds from a global educational French initiative in cooperation with the government of Mali. By Mali standards, this building is solid. The walls are rough-hewn stones, the floor ...


At last, a shower

I am now back in Bandiagara, after spending 4 epic days in the ancient villages of the Dogon country. That brief appetizer has spawned a ravenous hunger to go back for more. Tomorrow, I plan to return without a guide to spend 10 more days out there, re-visiting my two favorite villages, Nombori & Benjemato. I spend the morning scurrying around town c...


The Suffering Sheep

8:15am. Began walking from Bengemato, a wind-swept village perched high on the plateau with infinite sweeping views of the plains below. This village, unlike most others, has 3 distinct communities living separate from each other- Christians, Muslims, & animists. Although the vast majority of Dogon people are animist, there are small pockets of Chris...